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HENRY DI88T0N & SONS 



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HENRY biSSTON & SONS' 






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PHlI^At)EliPHlA, Pfl. 



PART I. 



—V OF 



M^ 



APh 27 18S« ;-) ^ 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1888, by HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Incorporated, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



CONTENTS. 

PART I. 



Introduction, , , . . . 

Standard Teeth and Gauge, . 

How to Order Mill Saws, 

How to Order Circular Saws, . 

Hints to Sawyers and Saw-Mill Men, 

Saws Out of Round, . . . 

Dull Teeth and Square Gullets, 

Improved Method of Casting Steel Ingots, or Compressed 

Hanging the Saw, ...... 

Speed of Saws, ...... 

Speed of Saws running 10,000 feet per minute on the rim 

Rules for Calculating Speeds, etc.. 

Speed Indicator, 

Circular Saws or Discs for Cutting Hot or Cold Iron 

Setting the Husk or Saw Frame, 

Lining the Saw with the Carriage, 

Collars for Saws, . 

Chisel Point Saws, 



Chisel Point File, 

Re-Saws, 

Fitting Saws, 

Sharpening and Gumming with Emery Wheels, 

Thin and Extra Thin Large Saws, . . . 

Hints for Cold Weather, .... 

Trammel for Circular Saw-Teeth, 

Gullet Tooth for Circular Saw, 

Filing Back on Periphery Lines, 

Gummers or Chambering Machines, 

Cutter Holder for Grinding Cutters, 

Swages, ....... 

Side File, ....... 

Gauge by which to File and Regulate Shape of SaW' 
Gridley Tooth, ..... 

How to File Circular Saws, 

Jones Tooth, . . . . . 

Saw Sets, ...... 

Adjustable Setting Stake for Circular Saws, 



or Steel, 



Teeth 



Steel, 



7 

9 
10 
II 
12 
13 
13 
14 
15 
15 
16 

16 
16 
17 
17 
17 
18 
19-23 

21 

24 

25 
26 

2 7- 

28 

29 

30 

31-34 

35-37 

3^ 

39> 40 

4T 

42 

42, 43 
43 
44 

45' 46 
46 



CONTENTS. 

Mandrels, .......,.,, 47 

Shingle Saws, .......... 48 

Veneering Saws, .......... 49 

Concave Saws, .......... 49 

Cork Knives, .......... 50 

Mitre Saws, ........... 50 

Grooving Saws, . . . . . . . . . . 51 

Gang Saws, . . . . . . . . . . , 51 

Brazing Clamps and Directions for Joining, Hammering and Running 

Band Saws, ......... 52-54 

Directions for Making Muriate of Zinc and Preparing Borax for Braz- 
ing Band Saws, . . . . . . . . . 53 

Anvil, Hammers and Straight Edges for Regulating the Tension of 

Saws, 54 

Swage Bar and Hammer, . . . . . . . . 55 

Gauge for Regulating Cleaning-Teeth, 55 

Great American Cross-Cut, Lumberman and Champion Saws, . . 56-58 

Files, 59> 60 

Testimonials, . . 61-67 



INTRODUCTION. 



In 1840, when Henry Disston commenced the manufacture of saws, the 
lumber business, which has since assumed such vast proportions, was in its 
infancy. It had not been brought to the science it has since attained ; saws 
were not required to stand the tremendous speed and feed which is now 
demanded of them; hmiber was plenty, and the thickness- of the saw was not 
a serious question ; since then mills have been introduced that drive the saw 
at a tremendous speed and the feed has been increased proportionately, con- 
sequently, saws must be made to stand this increased demand upon them. 
Still, there is a limit to the strength of steel and saw, and while we do not 
claim that every saw we make is perfect, (as it is impossible to discover slight 
imperfections in the body of the steel plate, which in spite of all care will at 
times exist), we do claim that if saws of our make are treated as we suggest 
in this pamphlet, they will meet the requirements in almost every case. 

Owing to the great difficulty experienced by us in getting steel suitable 
for our wants, in 1855 we commenced the manufacture of saw steel, securing 
the services of men who had had long experience in manufacturing it. 

The reputation which our saws have gained and the frequent orders 
received, which specify that Disston' s steel must be used, is a guarantee that 
our steel is of superior quality, and we claim a great advantage in being able, 
from the fact that steel and saw works are connected, to readily detect any 
faults which may arise. One can see how important it is for us to use the 
greatest care in the steel works so that the saws will not be condemned after 
we have expended so much time and labor upon their making; therefore, the 
quality of steel used^ the perfect system of grinding, tempering, hammering 
and testing which we follow, with the great experience we have had in the 
business, has gained for our saws the reputation which they are justly entitled 
to. But notwithstanding all this care and attention on our part to produce a 
perfect saw, we are compelled at times to suffer from a want of experience on 
the part of the men engaged in the mill business, who persist in running a saw 
beyond the limit of endurance, and the improper methods used by some to 
keep their saws in order. We are always ready and willing to replace a saw 
faulty in either steel or manufacture, but we do not think that we should be 
expected to replace a saw which has been subjected to unfair usage. 

Mill-owners and sawyers will find it greatly to their advantage to keep 
this hand-book in a convenient place for reference, for it contains a great 
deal of useful and valuable information for them. 



HENR Y DISSTON dr- SONS' ' 



SUPERIOR. TO ALL OTHERS. 



Having had over forty-seven years'- experience in manufacturing saws, 
we feel justified in saying that our goods are superior to all others, from the 
fact that we have, by constantly experimenting at great cost, arrived at a state 
of perfection in machinery for manufacturing saws which can only be attained 
by years of constant application and watchfulness. Disstons' Saws are used 
wherever lumber is made, and are the criterion of excellence by wliich the 
merits of all others are judged. 




Parties ordering saws from us will save themselves much trouble by exer- 
cising care in making out their orders ; we furnish blanks to facilitate this, 
which can be had on application. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



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The above illustration represents our various styles and Nos. of saw teeth; 
also our standard gauge. By consulting it a person will be enabled to inform 
us the size and style of tooth, and also the gauge of any saw he may desire. 

STANDARD GAUGE. 



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X2 HE MR Y DISSTON 6- SONS' 



Hints to Sawyers and Saw-Mill Men. 



A GOOD MILL. 



In the first place you want to make sure of a good mill ; a feiv hundred: 
dollars more at the commencement is a small amount when compared with 
the time and money lost by a poor one. A few weak points about it will 
sometimes consume half of the power, but no matter how perfect your mill" 
may be, imless you have your collars true and your saw well-fitted and 
nicely sharpened, your neighbor, whose mill may not be as good as yours,, 
will do better work if he pays strict attention to keeping his saw in order. 

A GOOD SAW. 

It is quite as essential that you have a good saw as it is that your milL 
should be good, true and solid. Our saws stand at the head of the market on. 
their merits. In workmanship, toughness, elasticity and quality of steel,, 
we claim Disston saws unequaled. 

If you will write us when you are in need of saws, giving us a description- 
of the work to be done, we will cheerfully give you the benefit of our experi- 
ence in selecting a saw, the diameter, gauge, style and number of teeth 
which will be best calculated to fill your bill, and which we will guarantee to- 
do your work satisfactorily. 

Below you will find some of the causes which give rise to complaint 
against saw and saw-maker : 

A saw that is too thin; a 'azm \kv3X has not sufficient teeth for the amount" 
of feed ; z.?^^.\n not propeiiy hung; one not evenly set; \}ci2X \% not filed square- 
or true ; a tooth that has not enough pitch, or that has too much pitch; a tooth 
whose back is higher than the point ; that has not a free chamber for the dust; 
a'saw not properly balanced on the mandrel To balance properly, a saw must 
be perfectly round, must have teeth of equal size and shape and round gullets- 
of equal depth, or one portion of the saw will'be heavier than another, caus- 
ing it to leap and tremble. A saw too thick in the centre will sometimes, 
heat. A ca7'riage that springs ; a ca7'riage not properly lined with the saw ; a 
mandrel that springs ; a mandrel that heats ; collars not true also give rise to- 
complaint. A gauge too long is frequently the cause of great trouble with 
bench saws. A very general cause of trouble is a dull saw, not only dull on 
the extreme point, but the cutting portion of the tooth under the points, 
as illustrated in Fig. i, on opposite page. 

The points of the saw-teeth are the only portion of the saw which should 
come in contact with the lumber. They must be kept sharp by frequent use 
of the file, and set by springing, swaging, or spreading when necessary, 
sufficiently to clear the blade of the saw nicely to prevent friction. As the 
points of the teeth do all the work, they speedily become dull and round, the- 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 13 

sides of the points wearing away as well as the points themselves ; take great 
care that the points are kept right ; they can be kept so by using a Jumper or 
Upset ; see pages 39 and 40. A good sawyer can tell when sharpening and 
setting his saw whether the temper is right or not, and by the use of a straight- 
edge can see if it is true and ground to his liking ; a new saw should always 
be tried before and after the collars are tightened, to see that it hangs true ; 
should it not do so, let us know at once where the fault is and we will correct 
it if in the saw, but do not in any case attempt to run a saw of 'which you are 
doubtful, for by so doing you might spoil the best one ever made. 

SAWS OUT OF ROUND. 

To remedy this defect, a piece of grindstone should be held against the 
points of teeth while the saw revolves and thus reduce or wear down the most 
prominent teeth ; or, a piece of red chalk may be held against the points 
which will mark the teeth in proportion as they are long or short, the long 
teeth being reduced by filing ; for when a saw has long and short teeth, it 
nakirally follows that the long teeth will have the most work to do, thus 
bringing an unequal strain upon that part of the saw, which will cause it to 
leave its line, heat, and give bad results generally. The cutting of a circular 
saw should be continuous, and to be so must be perfectly round, otherwise 
you cannot obtain the best results. On the same principle, the tooth edge of 
band, gang, mill and mulay saws must h& perfectly straight. 

Neglect of any of the suggestions above given are sure to cause you 
trouble ; we have had saws returned us as shown in Fig. i at D, not 
because they were bad when they left our factory, but because they had not 
been properly kept in order. 

Fig. 1. 





DULL TEETH AND SQUARE GULLETS. 

Do not file square corners in the gullets of your saw, as it is very liable 
to break as shown in cut above, at D, particularly when dull or in frosty 
weather. Our warranty is cancelled if these square corners are filed in yoxir saw. 



14 HENR Y DISSTON <&- SONS' 

You will observe in the cut on preceding page that in addition to having 
sharp corners in the gullets, teeth A and B are very dull ; tooth C shows how 
the points and gullets should be dressed. The gullets should be kept rounded 
out, either with a burr gummer or a file. 

Your saw-tooth becomes dull on the side or under the point in propor- 
tion to the amount or extent of feed ; for instance, if your tooth takes one- 
eighth of an inch hold at each revolution, it will become dull for one eighth 
of an inch below the point, or more or less as you increase or diminish your 
feed. A few minutes filing two or three times a day will save ten-fold the 
amount of time and labor in running a dull saw, also making a saving in the 
power consumed, which, in some mills, is a very important consideration, and 
a heavy percentage in the quantity as well as the quality of lumber cut in a 
day, month or year. It is a mistaken idea that there is a saving by not taking 
time to sharpen the saw ; it is as essential that a saw be sharp as a razor or 
plane, in fact, any cutting instrument, and when proud, or full and sharp, it 
does not require one-half the set or power on the same feed. 

IMPROVED METHOD OF CASTING STEEL INGOTS, OR 
COMPRESSED STEEL. 

Patented, December 8th, 1885. 

From the time that saws were first made to the present, saw manufacturers 
have had the greatest difficulty in obtaining steel plates for circular saws that 
were free from flaws caused by cavities formed in the ingots while they are 
cooling. These cavities injure the steel very much, rendering it entirely 
worthless for saw steel, for when containing them, it gives the saw plate the 
appearance of being made of two pieces of steel not properly welded together 
and causes the teeth of that portion of the saw to split, spall or crumble. 

It was impossible to detect all of these flaws in the ingot or in the plate 
after rolling, consequently saws have been sent out by all manufacturers that 
have proved unsatisfactory, causing an expense to both the mill man and the 
maker ; an expense to the mill man in loss of time, and a dead loss of the 
saw to the manufacturer. We have always taken the utmost care in the man- 
ufacture and inspection of our steel and saws and have always headed the list 
as saw manufacturers, but in spite of our best endeavors, we were, until quite 
recently, unable to entirely overcome this difficulty ; now we are happy to say 
that after years of careful study and expensive experimenting, our efforts have 
been crowned with the greatest sitccess of the age, as our method of casting 
steel ingots and process of compressing same, entirely does away with 
all splitting, spalling and crumbling of teeth. This process is entirely new 
and original and has long been sought after by prominent steel makers both 
in this country and Europe; several patents have been granted for com- 
pressing and improving saw steel, but all of them have fallen short of the 
mark until our patent No. 331,856 was brought out. 

This method not only does away with the splitting and spalling of teeth. 



HAND- B O OK FOR L UMBh RMEN. 1 5 

but makes a hard, tough, elastic steel of the highest quality, which, with our 
improved and patented process of manufacturing and tempering, enables us 
to furnish our patrons with saws that for toughness, standing-up quality, 
uniformity of temper and general superiority, have never before been equaled. 
Among the first saws sent out made from this new steel were tTiree 64-inch 
by 6 gauge straight, which went into one of the largest steam feed mills of the 
South, working on hard yellow pine, and we have their word for it that in a 
run of nine hours, they cut 45,000 feet of one inch boards,, using only two 
sharp saws to do it with. Many other testimonials of the same nature prove 
what we say above, that our efforts in improving saws and steel have been 
crowned with the greatest success of the age. 

HANGING THE SAW. 

In this matter, too hiuch care cannot be exercised. First, the mandrel 
should fit as tightly as possible in the boxes, so that it will run without 
heating. Secondly, we recommend, where flat collars are used, the 
steadying pins to be made with a shoulder (see cut below), for it frequently 
happens where any other kind of pin is used, a burr or bunch is raised at the 
corner where the pin enters the collar. This is avoided by using the pin as 
shown in illustration, the bottom of which is smaller than the top. 




Steadying Pin. 
SPEED OF SAWS. 

This is a very important point for consideration, as a hundred revolu- 
tions, more or less, will always make a great difference in the running of the 
saw, yet, we know of many cases where the speed varies several hundred revo- 
lutions per minute ; we can adjust the tension of the saws to overcome this 
variation in the speed if full instructions upon this subject are given us when 
ordering. But Ave advise a regular speed at all times ; our experience has 
been that saws work better running one hundred revolutions below speed 
given in table than they will when working first one hundred revolutions or 
more above, than as many below proper speed. If your power is too light 
to maintain the speed regularly, do not take your governor off and run with 
a throttle ; try the experiment of running your engine at a higher regular 
speed, put a larger diameter receiving pulley on your mandrel, and you will 
get better results both as to quality and capacity. This will be much better 
than the throttle plan, even if your speed does fall below that given in table ; 
the regularity is the most desirable point to look after. Following is a table 
of speeds. 



16 



HENR Y DISSTON 6- SONS' 



SPEED OF SAWS RUNNING 10,000 FEET PER MINUTE 

ON THE RIM. 

72 in., 530 revolutions per minute. T^d in., 1,080 revolutions per minute. 



68 
64 

60 
56 
52 
48 

44 
40 



560 
600 
640 
700 
75° 
815 
890 
980 



32 




1,225 


28 




1,400 


" 24 




1,630 


" 20 




1,960 


16 




2,450 


" 12 




3 260 


" 10 




3 920 


" 8 




4,600 



RULES FOR CALCULATING SPEEDS, Etc. 

PROBLEM i: The diameter of driving and driven pulleys and the 
speed of driver being given, find the speed of driven. 

RULE. Multiply the diameter of driver by its number of revolutions, 
and divide the product by the diameter of the driven ; the quotient will be 
the number of revolutions of driven. 

PROBLEM 2. The diameter and revolutions of driver and the revolu- 
tions being given, to find the diameter of the driven. 

RULE. Multiply the revolutions of driven by its diameter and divide 
the product by the revolutions of the driver ; the quotient will be the diame- 
ter of driver. 

SPEED INDICATOR. 




FULL SIZE. 

Weighs 2 ozs. 
Patent applied for 



Correct and 

Reliable. 

Any Speed can 

be Accurately 

Counted. 



Sent by mail, prepaid, for ^i 50, with full instructions for using. Every 
mill-man should have one. 

This instrument is very useful for accurately giving the speed of any 
machine or shaft when in motion. It is very important that the exact speed 
of saws be given, and with the Speed Indicator there can be no mistake. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 17 

CIRCULAR SAWS OR DISCS FOR CUTTING HOT OR COLD 

IRON, OR STEEL. 

For fast cutting of cold steel or iron, friction-discs, run at high speed, 
-are used ; for hot steel and iron, saws having teeth varying from 2/^ to i/^ 
inches in space, are used, the angle of teeth being equally divided from aline 
•drawn from points of teeth to centre of saw, and are run at a speed some- 
what lower than friction- discs. These saws and discs are made of mild steel 
manufactured expressly for tlie purpose. The teeth of the saws should be fre- 
quently sharpened and kept square on both edges, and the flanging on the discs, 
which becomes crystalized and ragged, should be taken off, or the great strain 
put on the discs and saws by the high motion and heavy pressure of work 
•will surely break or tear the metal apart. 

To give the best results, these saws and discs must be run at a high and 
uniform rate of speed. Hot saws should be run at about the rate of twenty 
thousand feet per minute (rim motion). Discs for cutting cold iron or steel 
should be run about twenty-four thousand feet per minute (rim motion). 

It is highly important that the mandrel and collars upon which these 
saws or discs are run should be amply heavy, large and true, and so secured 
in boxes to the frame work or housing as to do away with all undue vibration. 

In cases where the motion of these saws is reduced from temporary 
causes the feed should be reduced proportionately, and Avhen it has been 
reduced to any great extent, work should be suspended altogether until 
proper speed can be regained and maintained. The work in no case should 
be forced suddenly upon nor crowded on the saw. 

The flanging which takes place upon the rim of discs should be removed 
before edges of same become ragged, or cracks in the plate will be the result. 

Hot iron saws should be sharpened frequently and not run until teeth are 
half worn off, as this will cause them to jam in their work, and is liable to 
break them. 

SETTING THE HUSK OR SAW FRAME. 

It is quite as important that the saw frame should be firmly secured to its 
place by through bolts as that it should be level and solid, as the vibration 
and strain are of such a nature that the frame would quickly change its posi- 
tion unless very firmly secured, and the slightest change would make a vast 
difference in the running of the saw and necessitate relining. In putting in 
the husk stringers, use well seasoned wood and put them down in such a 
manner that they cannot possibly change their position, then find the position 
of the husk on the stringers and fasten down securely with through bolts. 

LINING THE SAW WITH THE CARRIAGE. 

In the ordinary method of grinding circular saws, it was difficult to get 
the surfaces of a saw true near the centre, and in consequence, even 
when screwed between collars which are true, the saw would not hang 



18 HENR V DISSTON &^ SONS' 

properly on the mandrel. This difficulty has been overcome by our im- 
proved principle for grinding saws at the centre, insuring perfectly true sur- 
faces and bearings for collars. In many cases, however, the saw is strained 
by imperfectly turned collars, and also by the saw not slipping freely up to 
the fast collar, the stem of the mandrel being a trifle large near the collar, 
and the saw being forced to its place by the nut, is made full on the log side. 
To prevent this, it is only necessary to file the centre holes to a nice fit, so 
that the saw can be pushed to its place by the hands. 

The amount of lead required for circular saws varies. The least amount 
that will keep the saw in the cut, prevent it heating at the centre, and from 
scratching the lumber when running back, is best. If the lead into the cut 
is too much, the saw will heat on the rim ; if the lead out of the cut is too 
much, the saw will heat at centre. We therefore give the least amount that 
is generally used, which is one-eighth of an inch to twenty feet. 

From the various methods used for lining a saw with the carriage, we 
give what we think will be most easily understood : First, see that the man- 
drel is set perfectly level , so that the saw hangs plumb and true when screwed 
between the collars, and is flat on the log side. Draw a line running ten feet 
each way from centre and parallel with the saw ; fasten a stick to the head- 
block, so that it comes up to the line at end in front of saw ; run the carriage 
forward the twenty feet, and stick should be one-eighth of an inch further 
from the line at the back end. 

A very good method is to have a tapering board, with a hole in the 
wide end to fit on the stem of the mandrel. Screw the board tightly between 
the collars ; drive a screw through the narrow end for a point ; measure the 
distance from the head-block to the point ; then turn the mandrel half way 
over by pulling on the pulley, so as not to strain or disturb the board 
between the collars ; run the head block up to the reversed side and set the 
mandrel to the required lead. 

All end play must be taken out of the mandrel when lining a saw to the 
carriage, and the track must be laid solid, level and true, so that the carriage 
will run straight and smooth 

A very common but erroneous way of trying lead is by stretching the 
line from head-block to head-block and then measuring from line to saw ; 
this is no test unless saw and collars are absolutely true; the guide pins 
must not touch the saw, and the head-blocks must be set precisely the same 
distance from saw line. Unless everything is true you will most certainly be 
misled by this method. 

COLLARS FOR SAWS. 

To have a perfect running saw it is indispensable to have the collars 
perfect and well fitting; but, as a general thing, there is nothing more defec- 
tive about a mill, and any deviation from perfection in them is multiplied as 
many times as the saw is larger than the collars. They should fit exactly. 



HAND BOOK FOR L UMBER MEN. 19 

Test the saw with a straight-edge, and if it is found correct, place it on the 
mandrel, tighten up the collars by hand, slowly revolve the saw, and, if 
found true, all right so far ; now tighten up the collars with a wrench, test 
again with straight edge and see if the position of the blade has been altered ; 
revolve saw as before, observing whether it runs true ; if not, the fault is sure 
to lie in the collars, and you will be likely to ruin your saw and certainly get 
no goqd out of your mill until the defects are remedied. 

For large saws we prefer collars that have a perfect bearing of about one- 
half an inch on the outer rim, the other part clear, as they hold tighter than 
a solid, flat faced collar, because they are more apt to come fair against 
the saw. Examine the collars carefully to see if they are true, for it often occurs 
in turning a pair of collars the tool springs from many causes, some of which 
are through pins, or hard and soft places in the iron, tool being too light, 
and from many other causes. In order to be certain that none of these causes 
shall affect the saw, our advice is, in all cases, before the mandrel is taken out 
of the lathe, a fine file of just the proper spring be held against the face of 
the collars ; this will take off any of the proud or uneven points that may 
have been left on them. 

We are now finishing all of our circular saws by a new and improved 
process, which insures each side of the saw plate being perfectly true , by this 
invaluable process, every particle of unevenness is removed ; the saw never 
requires packing (providing the collars are true), and all the annoyance and 
trouble which has hitherto surrounded and perplexed the sawyer in this par- 
ticular are forever removed. | 

CHISEL POINT SAWS. I 

We make four sizes of teeth and holders for the chisel-point saws which 
are numbered respectively, i and 2 Oregon Chisel Point and 3 and 4 Chisel 
Point. 

The No. I Oregon Chisel Point being the largest, is best adapted to 
very large timber on account of having large throat or saw-dust chamber. 

The No 2 Oregon also has large chambers, but is smaller than No. i . 
A greater number of saw teeth can be put in the saw blade than of No. i. 

The No. 3 is smaller than the No. 2, and is well adapted to any kind of 
sawing. 

The No. 4 is used principally for edger saws, or where more teeth are 
required than can be put in of the No. 3 size. 

All of these teeth are inserted by improved machinery on the most cor- 
rect principles, the holders and points being grooved on the same curved 
lines, making a perfect fit in the sockets. Points and holders are exact dupli- 
cates, and, if ordered as directed, will suit any saw made by us for that size 
of holder and point for which the saw was fitted. The stops in front of 
sockets give the teeth a good solid bearing, and prevent the holder from 
turning out in case a point should be broken off in the cut. 



20 HENR Y DISSTON 6- SONS' 



When the edges on the inner circle of the holder wear round, they 
should be filed square, which will prevent dust from passing and unnecessary- 
wear on the saw plate. When holders become thin by long use, new ones 
should be put in, and the result will be better lumber and less wear on the 
saw plate. The amount of power required to run the Chisel Point Saw is much 
less than that required by any other. 

When putting in the points, be careful to have them well oiled to pre- 
vent cutting the plate j see that they have a good bearing before using the 
wrench ; to do this, it may be necessary to tap the point on the top with a 
light hammer until the wrench can be used without tilting the point back- 
wards or causing it to fly out. If the point holder is not brought up full 
against the front stop, place a piece of iron on the holder where it projects 
under the point, and drive it home by a few strokes with a hammer. 

To prevent unnecessary wear on the sockets and the saw plate, the points 
should be dressed or filed without taking them out of the sockets ; the points 
are not so hard that they cannot be sharpened by a good file which we make 
for the purpose, but the filing must be done on the front of the tooth, being 
careful not to leave a sharp nick under the point, which would cause it to 
break off and be likely to injure other parts of the saw. 






No. 1. 



P 
No. 2. No. 3. 

No. I shows point as it is when new; No. 2 one that has been properly 
filed until worn out ; No. 3 bad filing, from which accidents may occur. 

When ordering points, send a sample of the kind you are using. 

The set should be carefully dressed on the sides by side-filing ; if a 
swage is used, it must be done carefully with a light hammer, just sufficient 
to square the points. 

When putting a point in place of one that has been broken off in the 
cut, be sure to have it dressed to size of those in the saw, so that it will not 
project further and be again broken off. 

See that the guides are set so that they are below the sockets, for, if they 
come in contact with the holders, they will turn the teeth out. 

In sending saws for repair, be sure to send the holders and a set of points, 
as it is necessary to have them in to properly hammer the saw ; if not sent, 
instruct us if you wish us to put in a new set. 

When sawing frozen timber use the worn points, select them in sets of 
one length, so that the saw will be round ; swage the points a trifle for clear- 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



21 



ance ; use no more set than is absolutely necessary ; have the teeth widest at 
the extreme points, but not weak ; taper the set nicely from point back by 
careful side dressing ; do not allow the corners to become rounded or the 
saw will dodge out of the cut, more particularly in slabbing, as the points 
next to the log do the most cutting and soon become dull in sawing frozen 
timber. 

In ordering these saws, be careful to give exact size of centre hole as any 
filing at this place would throw the saw out of round. 



No. 1 OREGON CHISEL POINT. 

Cut full size of tooth 




CHISEL POINT FILE. 

Made 9 inches in length. 



^>5?s?^;^S5!!^^^^?^«SS?5:555^^;^55555:55«!;s^^>c^^ 




This file is made expressly for keeping the chisel points in the same per- 
fect shape as they leave the factory; by its use the filing' of sharp corners is 
prevented, from which points are liable to break off. See opposite page. 



22 



HENRY DISSTON &- SONS' 



No. 2 OREGON CHISEL POINT. 



Cut full size of tooth. 




No. 3 CHISEL POINT. 



Cut full size of tooth. 




HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



23 



No. 4 CHISEL POINT. 

Cut full size of tooth. 




No. 10 TOOTH. 




We call particular attention to the flanged tooth, by the use of which 
there is a great saving in power and prevention against the heating and 
springing of saws. 

The flanges are so made in the saw plate and teeth as to cover the points 
of the teeth. The saw-dust formed by the cutting of the log is forced below 
the points of the teeth by the motion of the saw, and, without the flange, 
would pass the tooth and wedge between the sides of the saw and timber thus 
heating the saw and causing unnecessary wear on the saw plate, requiring 



24 



HENR Y DISSTON dr- SONS' 



additional power, to overcome the friction and loss of time in waiting for tlie 
saw to cool. From the above, the advantages of the flanged tooth are obvious. 

Our saws are made with the greatest care by experienced workmen with 
improved machinery, and we use none but the best material in their manu- 
facture. They are evenly tempered and ground by our patented process, 
which makes them perfectly true, dispenses with the liability of lumps or 
unevenness in the saw plate, Avhether of the same thickness throughout or 
beveled from eye to rim, and saves power, lumber and time. 

All saws bearing the brand Henry Disston & Sons, are fully warranted. 



RE-SAWS. 




The difficulty occasioned by wearing down or reducing in diameter of 
shingle, veneer, segment, heading and re-saws, has created a more general 
demand for an inserted tooth saw of this class, and to supply this want, we 
are now making quite a large proportion of our segment, heading, shingle and 
re-saws with the improved re-saw inserted tooth, of which the above cut is a 
representation. The advantages claimed for this style of saw are numerous, 
the most important of which is that the original diameter of the saw is retained. 
This point will readily be seen by all practical operators and sawyers ; for the 
saw must be the proper diameter and thickness at rim and centre to give the 
best results, for if the diameter is decreased, the periphery or cutting edge is 
brought closer to the heavy centre or flange of saw, not only cutting out a 
heavier kerf, but bringing an undue strain upon both saw and machine and 
causing the pieces being sawed to take a short, sharp spring-off, and in sawing 
short stuff where flanged saws are used, the flange or collar, by its close 
proximity to cutting edge of saw, splits a portion of piece from the bolt 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 25 

instead of sawing it, giving very unsatisfactory results both as to quality and 
quantity of work done. Therefore, if your saw is right at the startp by retain- 
ing original thickness and size, these difficulties are entirely obviated, and to 
do this, inserted tooth saws must be used, or the solid tooth must be frequently 
replaced. 

This saw can be made in gauges from 14 to 17 at the rim. By replacing 
the teeth when worn out, practically you have a new saw at a trifling 
expense. We give the same warranty on these saws as on any other goods with 
our brand on. They are no experiment, having been used for a number of 
years with satisfaction and economy. 

We have made such improvements in our manufacturing facilities and 
brought this tooth to such a state of perfection that, all things considered, 
they are the best, as well as the most economical saws used in the class of 
work for which they are intended. 

KEEPING AND FITTING SAWS, Etc. 

See that your saw slips up freely to fast collar and hangs straight and 
plumb when tightened up, that your mandrel is level, in proper line with your 
carriage, and that it fits in its boxes as neatly as possible without heating, for 
when the mandrel heats, by transmission, the saw will heat also and thus 
expand in the centre, which will make it work badly, injure, and perhaps ruin 
it. We do not warrant a saw to run on a mandrel that heats, although if 
we knew to what degree of heat you get your mandrel, we could make a 
saw that would admit of that much expansion, but a heating will ahuays give 
more or less trouble. To get the best results from a mill, this heating must 
be overcome. See article on mandrels for circular saws. 

Take up all end play or lateral motion in mandrel, as the grain of the 
wood will draw or push the mandrel endwise, no matter how well the saw is 
kept. See that the carriage track is level, straight, solid, and in proper line, 
also that rolls or trucks have no end play. Keep all gum or saw-dust off the 
tracks. Keep the saws sharp, round, and swaged or set enough for clearance ; 
when everything is in proper shape -^^ of an inch equally divided is sufficient 
swage or set. Keep extreme point of tooth the wddest. Do all the filing on 
the under or front side of tooth, filing square across the teeth, but never file 
square corners in saws of any kind, as this renders them liable to break. 
When you have occasion to swage or upset the teeth of your saw, file them 
all to a sharp point first; this will not only save time but save the saw, for 
the sharper the teeth the more easily will they upset or swage. Endeavor to 
keep the teeth in the shape they were when new, for if they lose any of the 
hook or rake or saw-dust chamber, it will not only consume more power but 
be harder to keep in order, as Avell as make inferior lumber. Keep your saw 
well balanced and your saw chambers well gummed out. By following 
instructions given with our No. i Gummer you will save your saw, time 
and files, and get much better results generally. 



26 



HENR Y DISS TON &- SONS'' 



SHARPENING AND GUMMING WITH EMERY WHEELS. 

Great care must be taken in sharpening or gumming saws with emery 
wheels. Always use a good, free-cutting wheel, and never put so much 
pressure on it nor crowd it so fast that you heat and blue the teeth, for when 
teeth are blued, glazed, or case hardened by the emery wheel, they are apt 
to break or crumble when in the cut or the next time they are swaged. 

When gumming it is best to go around the saw several times instead of 
finishing each tooth at one operation, for by going over the teeth several 
times, they are less liable to case-harden or blue, and gives a more uniform 
gullet. After gumming, it is advisable to file all around the saw, taking care to 
remove the fash or burr left on the edges and all the glazed or hard spots, as 
cracks will start from the little cuts made by the emery wheel which are not 
discernable at first, but by the use of the saw become deeper, and finally the 
teeth break out or the cracks extend into the body of the plate and the saw 
is ruined. Gumming and sharpening with the emery wheel will cause your 
saw to " let down " or lose its tension much quicker than by the use of the 
file or burr-gummer, as it heats and expands the rim of saw, putting it in the 
shape that is generally termed by mill-men "rim bound," which makes it 
appear loose and limber and causes it to run snakey in the cut. Many saws 
are condemned just from this cause and thrown aside as worn out, when by 
the proper work and hammering they can be made as good as new saws of the 
same size. i 

In sending us old saws for repairs, mark plainly on the case whom they 
are from, and write us full instructions as to what you wish done, and we will 
guarantee to put as good and durable tension in them as they had originally. 
We make and repair saws as well as alter from solid to inserted tooth. 

PRICE-LIST OF KEYSTONE SOLID CORUNDUM AND 
EMERY WHEELS. 





MS 

4800 


THICKNESS OF WHEELS, IN 


INCHES. 


V^ ¥2 


% 


1 


1^/ 


1^ 


1^ 


2 


2'X 


2^ 


2% 


3 


3J^ 


4 


3 


80 


85 


1 00 


1 10 


1 25 


1 35 


1 50 


1 60 


1 75 


1 90 


2 00 


2 10 


2 60 


3 00 


4 


3600 


95 


1 10 


1 40 


1 65 


1 95 


2 20 


2 50 


2 75 


3 00 


3 30 


3 60 


3 85 


4 60 


5 00 


5 


3000 


1 20 


1 40 


1 80 


2 20 


2 60 


3 00 


3 45 


3 80 


4 20 


4 65 


5 00 


5 40 


6 40 


7 40 


fi 


2400 


1 45 


1 75 


2 50 


3 05 


3 70 


4 35 


5 00 


5 65 


6 30 


6 95 


7 60 


8 25 


9 55 


11 00 


7 


2100 




2 30 


3 15 


3 95 


5 00 


5 60 


6 40 


7 25 


8 10 


8 90 


9 75 


10 55 


12 20 


13 85 


8 


1800 




2 60 


3 60 


4 50 


5 70 


6 40 


7 fiO 


8 30 


9 60 


10 20 


11 60 


12 10 


14 00 


16 00 


9 


1600 




3 16 


4 40 


5 60 


6 80 


8 05 


9 30 


10 50- 


11 70 


12 95 


14 20 


15 40 


19 00 


21 75 


10 


1500 




3 70 


5 15 


6 60 


8 10 


9 50 11 00 


12 40 


14 25 


15 35 


17 25 


18 20 


21 10 


24 00 


1?, 


1200 




4 on 


6 00 


7 40 


9 00 


10 70 12 75 


14 00 


15 70 


17 40 


19 00 


20 75 


24 25 


27 50 


14 


1050 




6 20 


8 70 10 70 


13 20,15 20 17 80 


19.70 


21 95 


24 20 


26 45 


28 70 


33 00 


37 00 


Ifi 


' 900 






11 00 13 70 


16 90|19 40 22 25 


25 00 


27 95 


30 80 


33 65 


36 50 


43 00 


48 75 


18 


825 






13 75 17 00 


21 75|24 50 28 75 


32 00 


35 75 


39 50 


43 25 


47 00 


54 50 


62 00 


^0 


750 








20 00 


25 00 29 00 35 50 


33 00 


42 50 


47 00 


51 50 


56 00 


66 00 


75 00 


?■?, 


675 










29 90 


35 50 


41 12 


46 75 


52 00 


58 00 


63 50 


69 25 


80 50 


91 75 


24 


600 












43 00 


50 00 


57 00 


64 00 


71 00 


78 00 


85 00 


99 00 


113 00 


.SO 


500 

















91 00 


102 00 


114 00 


125 00 


136 00 


159 00 


185 00 


36 


400 


1 














127 00 




157 00 




188 00 


219 00 


250 00 



HAND- B O OK FOR L UMBERMEN. 27 

THIN AND EXTRA THIN LARGE SAWS. 

As we have said in the preceding pages, all saws and saw-mill machinery- 
must be kept in the proper shape to obtain the best results; this is especially 
necessary in running thin saws, for while a thick or standard gauge saw will 
give very fair results where only medium skill in the management of saw and 
mill is used, a thin saw would fall far short of giving fair results under the 
same methods and management, for from reasons given below, a thin saw 
requires more skill and better appliances to give same results than a thicker 
one. 

First, being lighter and thinner, it necessarily follows that they cannot 
reasonably be expected to stand as much crowding as a thicker saw. 

Second, it is always necessary to have enough set in a saw to give 
good clearance, which means enough to prevent the log from rubbing on the 
body of saw. 

In the ordinary gauges of-larger circular saws, say 7, Sand 9, used in the 
■ordinary manner on the average feed and ordinary lumber, ^^ of an inch 
equally divided is about as little set as should be run except in hard woods 
and frozen timber, then less may be used. A thin saw requires just as much 
clearance as any other saw, consequently, in proportion to the thickness, the 
thin saw has the most strain to bear, hence, from these reasons alone the best 
;skill and mill are required. We do not wish to convey the idea that we do 
not make and warrant thin saws, but simply wish our customers who con- 
template putting in extra thin saws to take a plain logical view of the facts 
.and figures relative to thick and thin saws. The difference in thickness 
"between 8 gauge and 10 gauge is-^^jofan inch; the set for clearance of 
eacK being the same, -^-^ is all it is possible to save in kerf, and between an 
8 gauge and 11 gauge the difference is -^-^ of an inch full, hence the saving 
in the instances above is very small — so small, in fact, that in nine cases out 
of ten it is offset by reduction in capacity or in poorly manufactured lumber. 

As to saving in power, the difference in nineteen cases out of twenty is 
not in favor of the thinner saw, for, being so much lighter, it will deviate 
from its line much easier, and any deviation, even so slight as to be imper- 
ceptible in the length of the cut, will consume by friction all the power you 
:save in difference of kerf. 

These are plain facts which any man who knows the gauges can figure 
out for himself, and we advise every mill man to study the subject well before 
■ordering extra thin saws. If his mill, skill of employes, and value of timber 
is such as to justify extra thin saws, then have them by all means, and we 
■claim that our saws in workmanship, toughness, elasticity, and standing-up 
■quality of steel are unequaled, whether thick, thin, or extra thin. 

In ordering, please note that thin saws require more teeth than heavier 
ones to do the same sawing, as this equalizes the strain on the rim as well as 
prevents springing of the teeth. 



28 



HENR Y DISS TON &• SONS' 



Regularity of speed is desirable with all saws, but particularly so with 
thin ones, as they depend more than any other upon the-velocity to hold them 
up to their work. In extra thin saws, one-sixth more speed than given in the 
table will be advantageous. See suggestions on keeping and fitting saws. 

HINTS FOR COLD WEATHER. 

Take the frost out of the saw with hot water before setting the teeth or 
putting the saw in motion, as steel is always brittle and easily broken whea 
frosted. As many saws are broken in winter, owing to the great, risk in saw- 
ing frozen timber, the greatest care should be taken not to put any undue 
strain on the metal by running a dull saw. Keep the points out full and 
square and do not allow them to become rounded, as the saw will dodge out 
of the cut, more particularly in slabbing, as the points next to the log do the 
most cutting and soon get dull in sawing knotty frozen timber. Use nO' 
more set than is absolutely necessary ; have the teeth widest at the extreme 
points, but do not have them weak ; taper the set nicely from point to back. 
Sharp corners should never be filed in the gullets as cracks are sure to start, 
from such misuse of the saw, particularly in cold weather. 

•PITCH OF TEETH FOR HARD AND SOFT WOODS. 




No. f. 




No. 2. 

Cut No. I shows proper shape of tooth for cross-cutting soft wood. 
No. 2 shows tooth best adapted to cutting hard wood. 



Cut 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



2» 



TRAMMEL FOR CIRCULAR SAW TEETH. 




The above cut represents a device for laying out and keeping in order 
the teeth of circular saws. By its use the teeth can be kept in proper shape, 
regular in depth, and an equal amount of pitch given to the front of each 
tooth. 

To rod A is attached chuck B, which holds a steel point for marking a 
circle for the bottom of the teeth. If all of the teeth are on this circle, they 
will be equal in depth. The strip of steel (C) can be set at any distance 
between the centre and the edge of the saw, and it will give the same pitch 
to the front of each tooth. The ordinary pitch is that which is obtained by 
placing the steel strip at a distance of three-fifths from the centre towards 
the edge of the saw-plate. There is a diversity of opinion concerning the 
proper pitch to be given to the fronts of teeth ; knotty timber requires less 
than clear timber ; with light power and light feed more can be used. The 
pitch can be increased by moving the steel strip nearer to the edge of the saw, 
but should the teeth become weakened, the backs or tops of the teethl should 
be strengthened, or they will either break or chatter in the work. Price^ 
^2.50, net. 



30 



HENR Y DISSTON &' SONS' 



PATENT GULLET-TOOTH CIRCULAR SAW. 

One of the most Valuable and Useful Improvements of the Agre. 

G 




By reference to the above engraving, it will be observed that the back 
or point-line of each tooth is the continuation of the spiral lines Z, and 
the sharpening is mainly done by the reduction of the gullet or throat only. 
This is readily accomplished by the use of our patent gummers. (See pages 
35 to 37.) 

The course pursued by this cutter is spiral, and while it is in the act of 
reducing the front or throat of tooth D, it is prolonging the back or point - 
line of tooth C. The engraving represents a two-inch tooth or gullet. The 
saw B is the saw A worn down. When the saw has been reduced on centre 
line from G to F, it has been worn away but six inches, yet has presented a 
cutting surface on spiral line Z from G to Y, a. distance of twenty-four inches. 
But this is only one of the advantages claimed for our patent gullet-tooth. 
The throat or gullet being chambered out on a half circle, forms a larger 
receptacle or chamber for dust, and thus a one-and-a-half-inch tooth of 
this pattern will keep a saw as free from choking as a two-inch tooth of the 
ordinary shape. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 31 

The saving of the saw-plate by the use of a smaller tooth is evident to the 
most casual observer. In wearing a fifty-four-inch saw down to a forty-two, 
a loss of twelve inches has been sustained in the diameter of the saw-plate, 
which is six sets of two-inch teeth, or eight sets of one-and-a-half-inch teeth, 
an advantage of two sets in favor of our new patent gullet-tooth, independent 
of the immense gain by gumming on spiral lines. 

The chambering machines (represented on subsequent pages) are furnished 
with different sized cutters, and with them you work out your gullet or 
chamber for whatever sized tooth you may require ; but the deeper your tooth 
the quicker your saw wears out. If you can do your work with a tooth one 
and one-fourth inches deep, your saw will last more than twice the time that 
it would if your tooth was three inches deep. 

We find that some mills sawing hard and soft woods carry only about 
one-inch feed. In this case a very shallow tooth is required. A shallow 
tooth will cut the smoothest lumber ; but, if you carry five-inch feed, as they 
do in some sections, you want a deeper chamber or more teeth certain, and 
the saw must wear down that much faster. What we wish to do is to give a 
tooth, where we can, to suit the feed and kind of work, for hard wood 
requires a different tooth from soft, in more ways than one. 

A great saving in your saw-plate, time and files is effected by taking a 
good, deep, full cut, instead of a light, scraping one. As stated in a 
previous article, a tooth becomes dull on its face in proportion to the 
depth of cut taken at each revolution of the saw ; for instance, with a 
thirty-second of an inch feed, it takes thirty-two teeth to cut one inch 
of lumber, whereas with one-eighth feed it takes only eight teeth to 
cut the same amount. In other words, the fibre or grain of the lumber 
has to be broken thirty-two times in one instance, and only eight times in 
the other ; and when your tooth starts to break the fibre one-eighth of an 
inch in your log, it will do it with nearly 
as much ease and consume very little more ' ^"'■'''' 

power than if the cut was a thirty-second 
of an inch. Of course one tooth, in this 
example, becomes dull for one-eighth of 
an inch under the point, and the other 
only one thirty-second of an inch, but it 
consumes as much saw-plate, time and files 
to bring up one tooth as the other ; it is, 
however, easy to overdo the thing ; there ~ "'^'^^'^^^^/te • 

is reason in this as well as in anything 

1 r\ i .-u -I?- J <.4. J T r> Filing back on the Periphery 

else. On tooth, Fig. 4, dotted hne B Line. 

shows where the point first wears; dotted 

line C C C shows how it should be filed back on the periphery line ; but, 
too frequently, on account of the long surface to be filed, and the sharp cor- 
ner in the gullet made as at /(which causes the teeth very frequently to break. 




32 



HENR Y DISS TON &- SONS' 



FIC.5^ 



as shown at line K), they go to the top of the tooth, as represented by 
the dotted Hne V. You will see that by filing back on the dotted line C C C 
you have only diminished your saw from dotted line ^ to i^, while by filing from 
the top you have diminished your saw, as 
shown by dotted lines, from E to D. 

This shows that by filing on top you 
have wasted five times as much of your 
saw as by a proper filing. This, added to 
both sides of centre, shows you have 
actually diminished your saw ten times as 
much as you would have by proper filing. 
This difficulty is overcome by the in- 
troduction of our new tooth, as repre- 
sented by cut. Fig. 5. 

You will see in Fig. 5 (same shape 
tooth as Fig. 4) by using the Gumming Machine (page 37), you have but a 
small surface left to file, which gives no excuse for filing on top of tooth. 




Showing Old and New^ Style 
Tooth. 




Engraving of Tooth after cutting 300,000 feet of Lumber. 

The above cut represents a section of our gullet- tooth saw (kept in order 
by Chambering Machine) after cutting 300,000 feet of hemlock lumber. 
Dotted line D and point A show the original diameter of the saw ; dotted 
line E and point C show the saw after cutting the above amount of lumber, 
only reducing the diameter of saw about three -sixteenths of an inch, as can 
be plainly seen between dotted lines I? and E. According to this, a fifty- 
inch saw will cut 9,600,000 feet, and only reduce the diameter of saw to 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



33 




forty-eight inches. You will thus perceive the great advantage derived by- 
using our Patent Tooth and Gummer. 

F/C.6- -. The accompanying cut is a fac-simile 

of the condition of the teeth of a large 
circular saw sent to our, factory to be 
ground. The parties had been using 
some gummer upon the saw, which 
"actually did more harm than good ; the 
reason we will explain : the line B shows 
where the cutter had been at work ; but, 
being entirely too small, not even reach- 
ing the bottom of tooth, as it it origi- 
nally was (leaving a ragged throat), and 
having so much depth to file at the top 
tliat the filer stopped before he reached the chamber, the consequence 
was, after a few filings there was a lump left in face of tooth, which so obstructed 
the circulation of saw-dust that the parties were compelled to send it to the 
factory to be gummed out. Dotted line C shows the condition the tooth 
"would have been in had our chambering machines been. used upon it. 

Figs. 7 and 8 show, by periphery lines, the difference in the wear of the 
saw. We will here remark that it is of the greatest importance to file back 
on these periphery lines. You will see by this tooth the point on the face is 
very small. Well, the smaller it is the less filing it takes to keep it sharp. 
One stroke of the file on this point will effect more than ten strokes on 
the face of a tooth that you have to keep back from point to bottom of 
gullet ; and when you have so little point to keep back, you will find it 



Bad Chambering. 

((Reduced to one half natural size.) 



no.i. 




Teeth for Soft Wood. 

easier to sharpen the saw from the face than to file from the top, and 
thereby you retain the diameter of your saw to a very great extent, as 
shown in Fig. 4, page 31 ; so much so, that you will not wear out one- 
third the saw-blade in one year that you do by the old process and old 
tooth. 

If you could let us know what kind of lumber, and the speed and 
feed used, we could then give you the tooth you want, and, in many 
instances, save you waste of saw and the extra time it would require to 



34 



HENR V DISSTON &- SONS' 



keep a large tooth in order. For instance, for one-inch feed, we should- 
not (where you use our gummer) give over one and a quarter depth ; for a 
five-inch feed, not less than forty teeth, and depth to correspond; for a. 
three-inch feed, we should give thirty-two teeth, and depth to correspond. 

m.B. 




Teeth for Hard Wood. 



The chambering machine ought to be put upon your saw every time that, 
the file strikes the back of the chamber, as shown in Fig. 9, Tooth A. 




When your Tooth wants Chambering. 

Tooth B has just been chambered, A wants chambering. By filing 
your saw back on this small point line, you wear your saw back on the peri- 
phery instead of (as is too much the case) on the centre line. Observe, if 
you file on the top of the saw, you go down towards the centre so much 
faster than when you keep back on the periphery line. 

Fig. C. 




The above cut shows the No. 14 or gullet tooth saw in action, and the 
manner in which the dust is "pocketed " and carried out. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



33 



No. 2 PATENT SINGLE-GEARED GUMMER or CHAMBERING 
MACHINE FOR CIRCULAR SAWS, 

38 INCHES OR SMALLER. 

Adapted for either Circular or Long Saws. Cutter- Grinder and one Cutter each, ^, |^, and 

3^ inch with each machine. Seven-eighths inch Cutter is the largest that can 

be used on this Gummer. 



PRICE, $15.00. 




Figs. A and B represent obverse views of the same machine, adapted for 
gumming either circular or straight saws. 

Fig. A sliows gummer in position on a circular saw. Put the gummer 
in proper position by means of screws A (Fig. B) ; run the screw If ds far 
back as necessary; set the jam-nuts L to correspond with the desired depth 
of gullet. Gauge F must now be placed so as to strike the point of the tooth 
in front of it. Then proceed with the gumming until the jam-nuts Z strike 
frame K. Remove gummer to next tooth, and repeat the operation until all 
the teeth are gummed. The jam-nuts must not be moved until the whole 
operation is completed. 



36 



HENR Y DISSTON &- SONS' 



^Oc 2 PATENT SINGLE-GEARED GUMMER or CHAMBERING 

MACHINE. 
PRICE. $15.00. 




Fig. B shows the, obverse side of Fig. A, with gummer in position on a 
Straight saw. Place the cutter B in gullet of the tooth to be gummed. Secure 
the gummer in position by means of screws A ; run the cutter back as far as 
necessary by means of screw H; set the jam-nuts L to correspond with the 
desired depth of gullet, and proceed to gum the first tooth, feeding with 
screw ZT until jam- nuts strike frame ^ (Fig- A) When this tooth is suffi- 
ciently gummed, remove the machine to the next tooth, and proceed as 
before until the work is finished. 

This machine has recently been much improved, an extra gauge D 
having been attached to the opposite side of the gummer, the two gauges D 
being used for the purpose spt-cified. The cutter has also been furnished with 
a bearing on each side, which greatly adds to its strength and effectiveness. 



GUMMER CUTTERS. 
2 



\i inch. 

$0.40 



y& inch.. 

.50 




IJ-i inch. 1^ inch. 

.80 .90 



ly^ inch. 

1.05 



IJ^ inch. 
l.CO each. 



The I inch to i^ inch cutters are for the No. i Gummer, and the ^ to 
^ inch for the No. 2 Gummer. 



HAND-BOOK FOR L UMBERMEN. 



37 



No. 1 PATENT DOUBLE-GEARED SAW GUMMER, OR 
CHAMBERING MACHINE FOR CIRCULAR SAWS, 



40 INCHES AND LARGER 



Cutter-Holder and One Cutter each, i, 1 3^, \y^ inch with 
each machine. 

PRICE, $20.00. 




DIRECTIONS FOR USING. 

Before using the gummer see that the oil holes are clear. A few drops 
of oil will be sufficient for from three to five hours' use. After using the 
gummer remove the chips or turnings that accumulate back of the cutter. 
If allowed to remain they will cause trouble by getting into the working parts 
of the machine. Run the cutter back by means of screw G as far as 
necessary. Then place the machine on the saw, with the cutter close up in 
the chamber of the tooth to be gummed. 

If the teeth are regular and the same distance apart, start the cutter in 
any chamber ; but if they are irregular, make them even by commencing in 
the smallest tooth. After gumming the saw a few times the teeth must become 
regular. .iS" is a set screw to regulate the depth of gullet. Fasten the machine 
to the saw by means of the screws BB, and proceed to gum the first tooth, 
one of the points of the star being struck at each revolution by a projection 
on the handle. The cutter is steadily fed in until arrested by set screw E. 
Remove the machine to the next tooth towards you, after having run the 
cutter back, and proceed as before until the operation is complete. Should 
the gullet or chamber be worn smooth, and the cuttei- fail to bite, rough 
the gullet with a file. The cutter is so arranged as to slide on its axis, and 
when one portion becomes dull, by removing a washer from back to front, a 
new sharp-cutting surface will be presented, so continuing to change the 
washers until the whole face of the cutter becomes dull. 



38 



HENR V DISSTON &- SOjVS' 



To take the cutter off the shaft, put the pin, hanging to the gummer, in 
the hole in the ratchet wheel H, to keep the shaft from turning while un- 
screwing the nut, which has a left-hand thread. The hand wheel on end of 
feed screw, outside of the star, is to allow the operator to feed easily and 
gently with the hand when starting in to cut rough gullets, until the cutter gets 
abearing, when by tightening the jam-nut on opposite side of star, the machine 
is made self-feeding. The ratchet by which the cutter is moved, effectually 
prevents any back motion, which has hitherto been a serious objection. 

This gummer is a most invaluable machine, and should be in the hands 
of every mill-man. It saves power, files and time, and is so simple in its 
mode of operation that any one of ordinary intelligence can be taught to use 
it. We pronounce this the best gummer ever manufactured. 




Device for Holding the Cutter of Chambering Machine in Position during: 
the process of Sharpening. 

A is the main frame ; Z>, the rollers ; B, the adjustable frame ; 3, the 
cutter ; C, the cutter shaft ; £ F, the screw for regulating the adjustable 
frame B ; G, the screw for tightening spring H, which holds the cutter 3 in 
proper position while grinding ; 6" is the grindstone. The stone should have 
a perfectly straight fa'ce and run through in the direction of the arrow. In 
using this machine care should be taken to hold it in line with stone. Screw 
the adjustable frame (which can be adjusted to any pitch) down till the cutter 
touches the stone ; then see ifthe cutter is in its proper position ; if not, it can 
be adjusted by spring H, by moving the spring either backward or forward. 




HAN'D-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



39 



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HENR Y DISSTON &- SOJVS' 



^ 



SWAGES, 
JUMPERS, or UPSETS. 

Cuts full Size. 




HANDBOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



41 



SIDE-FILE. 




Double Spread Tooth. 



The Gridley Tooth. 



Spring- and Spread Tooth. 

The above cuts show the different sets 
for saw teeth. 

The dotted lines show the undercut. 



PRICE, $1.50. 

It is impossible to so set a saw that some of the teeth will not over- 
hang, or are not bent over more than others. The slightest difference in the 
temper or variation in shape causes the teeth to set mild or rigid ; this defect 
in the set, no matter how slight, must produce rough lumber. The difficulty- 
can be overcome by the use of our side-file, an instrument invaluable to every 
sawyer or lumberman. It is used for the purpose of regulating saw-teeth after 
they have been set, and can be adjusted to any width of set required. It 
removes the extreme points and brings every tooth in perfect line on a firm 
foundation and true cutting-edge. 

Every point is brought up to its work, leaving no vacant corners ; no 
weak, flimsy, or extreme points, such as are left by the ordinary way of 
setting and sharpening. By the use of this tool, the set of every tooth is 
made even, and a saw tlius regulated will run longer without sharpening. 
Thfe file must be so adjusted by means of the set screws as to conform to the 
width of set desired. The jam-nuts are for the purpose of securing the set 
screws in the desired position. When the side-file has been properly adjusted 
it must be held in position by means of the clips A, against the saw blade, 
the points of the set screws B only touching the blade. Each tooth in 
succession must be filed until the set of the tooth conforms to the gauge of 
the set screws. Thus, all uneven or overhanging corners will be removed. 

Shortly after the introduction of this invaluable tool, a customer sent to 



42 



HENR Y DISSTON 6- SONS' 



US for the machine which we had to help the saw to "plane lumber ^ We 
had some little difficulty to find out what he meant, but at length discovered 
that he wanted the "side-file." The immense demand for this useful little 
tool, and the testimonials we are constantly receiving, fully prove its value. 
When ordering, state plainly whether holder is wanted or only file for holder, 
or the side-file complete. 

GAUGE BY WHICH TO FILE AND REGULATE THE SHAPE 

OF SAW-TEETH. 




'1'.,'' I ,',, , . 1, II I';",.',';;;";' ■■ P 

A tooth cannot be jumped or upset to advantage unless filed sharply 
and to the proper shape. To do this without a gauge requires a large amount 
of practice and experience. Taking for granted the back of the tooth is in 
good shape, the jumping must be done from the underside ; this gives the proper 
rake and saves the saw. After the teeth are swaged, a few touches with the 
ordinary file and side-file complete the work. This useful little tool will be 
furnished gratuitously on application. 

THE GRIDLEY TOOTH. 




The attention 'of our readers is especially called to Figs. A and B. They 
are representations of the Gridley tooth, spring and spread set combined. 
Fig. A represents a portion of a saw in proper order for work, and Fig. B 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 43 



Fig. B. 



shows how the teeth become worn and rounded by use. Where the power is 
light and the sawing tough, this tooth, kept in proper order, will accomplish 
wonders. The cutting-points must be kept up squm-e and full, as shown in 
Fig. A; for, when they become dull androunded, as shown in Fig. B, it re- 
quires more power to run the saw, and makes inferior lumber. 

In sharpening this or any other tooth, the filing should be done almost 
■exclusively on the z^;/^,fr J-/;-/,? ; the top should be filed sufficiently to keep 
the tooth in proper shape. The points of the teeth should never be filed to 
a keen, proud edge, but must be brought up by the use of the swage and a 
light hammer, and care should be taken to elevate rather than depress the 
point of the tooth during this process. After swaging, a few touches of the 
iile will complete the work, and a great saving in saw-plate, files and labor 
will result. Thousands of dollars are annually wasted by the old method of 
iiling and getting up the points of saw-teeth. Our saws are ground in the 
exact position in which they are used in the mill, and subjected to the same 
strain. Both sides being ground at the same time between two stones revolv- 
ing rapidly, a true, even and uniform surface is the certain result, less set is 
required, and friction wholly avoided. 

Many persons lose sight of the fact, that if the engine flags, everything 
about the mill flags in the same proportion, and the loss from this cause is 
immense. 

HOW TO FILE CIRCULAR SAWS. 

In a great many instances the persons who file circular saws pay no 
regard to the shape of the teeth ; they get them into all kinds of shapes but 
the right one, as shown in engravings on next page. 

The dotted lines on Fig. 2, page 44, represent the teeth in proper shape as 
they leave the factory; and the lines at B, Cand D show the condition in 
which they are frequently sent, to us for repair. In these teeth there is no 
•chamber for the circulation of dust. At the same time this kind of filino- 
wears away the saw five times as fast, and consumes three times as many files 
as would be required to do the work properly. But these are only a portion 
of the evil results. Teeth filed with sharp, square corners at the bottom 
frequently break, as shown at A, tooth C. It is lamentable to see this state 
of things when it can be so easily avoided. 



44 



HENR V DISSTON &= SONS' 



F/G.2 




,^0'-^'^'- 



We have thousands of dollars' worth of saws returned for repairs, that 
break in cold weather by reason of these sharp corners. They are ruinous to 
the saw in many ways. If you will see to having your saw teeth kept in the 
shape they leave us, you will do away with this trouble and expense. The 
moment the teeth commence to get in bad shape, your saw begins to suffer 
in diameter, from the fact that the filer, wishing to get his points sharp too 
soon, files from the top instead of the face of the tooth. This does not help 
him one particle, but rather the reverse ; and every stroke of the file on the 
top wears the saw away more than five strokes on the face or under side of 
the tooth. 

JONES TOOTH. 



A ,^"' 




The above engraving of the Jones tooth will fully illustrate the evils of 
this pernicious and destructive practice. 

This engraving represents a full-sized tooth, accurately traced from a saw 
sent to us for repair. The teeth of this saw had been filed from the top 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



45 



instead of the face. Dotted line i strikes the point of tooth at A, and shows 
the size or diameter of the saw when it left the factory. Dotted line 2 strikes 
the point of the tooth at B, and shows the size the saw would have been by 
filing back on periphery line, according to our directions. Dotted line 3 
strikes the point of the Jones tooth at C, a'nd shows how much he has reduced 
the saw by his fearful mode of filing. Take a pair of compasses and measure 
from A to B, and you will find exactly the same distc.nce as from A to C; 
this, of course, presents the same amount of cutting surface in each instance, 
and yet in one case the saw has beeii filed down in size three times as much 
as the other. 

Now, what has caused all this loss and trouble ? Why, Mr. Jones has 
been filing from the top instead of from the face of his tooth. He has filed 
away and destroyed the useful portion of his saw, and retained that part which 
is of no earthly use to him, but is a positive injury. He has done three times 
as much filing as was necessary, and has consumed three times as many files 
as were required. He has left no chamber for circulation of dust ; his tooth 
is higher at D than at C, thus instead of cutting his lumber with the point of 
his tooth, he scrapes it with the back. If his saw never commenced to heat 
before, it will do so now. Mr. Jones sent it back to us with the remark. 



REVOLVING SAW-SET. 




A good set for small circular saws, or saws with small teeth. 



46 



HENR y DISSTON &- SONS' 



IMPROVED ADJUSTABLE SETTING 
-^ STAKE FOR CIRCULAR SAWS. 




This valuable tool can be adjusted to set 
saw from six to thirty inches in diameter, 
cone A is moved in or out to suit the diameter of the saw, and raised or 
lowered as may be required. The movable anvil or B is made of hardened 
steel, and some portions of the face being beveled more than others, the 
operator can regulate the amount of set as desired. 





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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



47 



CIRCULAR SAW MANDREL, 

Of the Latest and Most Approved Style. 

PULLEY IN CENTRE, 




■V 



£M/i^ 



m 



A mandrel should not be too light for the work to be done or it will spring, 
causing it to heat. See that the bearings are well proportioned and fitted. 
All bearings should be at least three times as long as diameter of mandrel: 
longer would be no detriment. The boxes should fit neatly enough to 
prevent lost motion, but not so tightly on the quarters as to cut off the supply 
of oil. One of the main causes of mandrels heating is want of proper lubri- 
cation. The cutting of channels from the front side of bottom half of boxes 
running down and under shaft to point of hardest bearing Avill be a great 
benefit in all cases ; then use a good heavy body oil or lubricant. In some 
mills Avhere three bearings are used on the mandrel, heating is caused by 
getting bearings out of line when shifting for lead or adjustment. Again, some 
mills are built with the collars for preventing end motion on the box nearest 
the saw ; they should be on the other end, as the bearing nearest the saw has 
the most strain on it in addition to this at all times. Heating is often caused 
by having a too short and tight brlt ; where you have trouble with a heating 
journal and slipping belt, it would be advisable, as well as economy, to 
increase the diameter of the receiving pulley on mandrel, even at the 
sacrifice of some of your speed. Belts should be of good length, and in all 
cases should have the strain on the lower side and slack on the top ; then 
when practicable, put a balanced tightener or stress pulley on the top, rigging 
it so that it Avill give as much lap of belt on the pulley as possible ; this, with 
the balanced tightener, will take much strain off the mandrel, rendering it less 
liable to heat. A saw running badly from other causes, by undue crowding 
and straining will frequently cause a mandrel to heat that would otherwise run 
cool. See suggestions on keeping saw and mill in order. 

We carry in stock mandrels with pulley on either end or in centre. 



r 



HENR Y DISSTON &= SONS ' 



SHINGLE SAWS. 




^^^^^^^^^^^^IN^,^ 




O .3 o 






Left-Hand. 



Right- Hand 




When ordering Shingle Saws, give the following 
directions plainly : diameter in inches ; thick- 
ness or gauge at centre ; thickness or gauge at 
rim ; full sketch or pattern of holes, and sample 
of screw by which to drill and countersink. If 
you have a flange, send it to have holes drilled in 
saw to fit it. If you wish us to furnish the flange, 
send full and correct sketch of diameter, thick- 
ness, holes, etc. State whose make of machine 
the saw is to rim upon, number of teeth, and be 
sure to give flat or countersunk side and the direc- 
tion in which the teeth run (see engraving above). 



Fig. 2. 




Particular attention is also called to the importance of using screws that 
are suitable for the thickness of the saw; we frequently receive screws as 
samples by which to drill and countersink, that have heads entirely too large, 
and which require ths flange to be countersunk, (as shown in Fig. i), 
thereby reducing the length of the thread and making it impossible to bind 
the saw firmly to it. 

Fig. 2 shows the correct size the screw-heads should be, thus getting 
a good bearing for the screw-heads on countersink in saw and full thickness 
of flange for thread. In no case should screw-heads be deeper than thickness 
of saw. 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



49 



VENEERING SAWS IN SEGMENTS. 





Left-Hand. 



Right-Hand. 



When ordering segments, give gauge or thickness at butt and at edge, 
depth of bevel, diameter of saw that segments are to form, number of 
segments, depth of segments, number of teeth in each segment, sample of 
screw by which to drill and countersink, flat or countersunk side, and direction 
in which teeth run (see engraving). 

In ordering for a flange that has been drilled, send a sheet iron or tin 
templet, or a correct tracing showing holes and other particulars ; or one of 
the old segments, giving the depth they originally were. 



CONCAVE SAWS. 




Left-Hand. 



Right-Hand. 



The attention of the manufacturers of chair or wheelwright lumber, 
barrels, etc., is respectfully called to concave saws, of which we are manu- 
facturing large numbers. They are dished and tempered by an entirely new 
and patented process, and guaranteed to be of superior quality in every 
respect. We furnish these saws considerably cheaper in consequence of our 
new mode of manufacture. 



50 



HENR Y DISSTON &■ SONS' 



To keep concave saws in order, set both sides of the teeth alike ; file the 
front of teeth square and bevel the back of each a trifle. Keep the same 
amount of rake on the fronts of all the teeth ; do not run a dull saw, and keep 
the gullets round. If an emery wheel is used, be careful not to case-harden 
the saw. Smooth the teeth and gullets with a file after gumming. 



CORK KNIVES. 



Our stock for cork knives is made espec- 
ially for the purpose and is the finest quality 
of edge-tool steel. This with our new pro- 
cess of tempering and grinding and the high- 
est class of workmanship, enables us to turn I, 
out knives which for general superiority 
stand unequaled. 

In ordering these knives give diameter, 
gauge, size of hole, whether to be beveled 
on both sides or only on one, and how deep 
bevel is to run. If knife is a large one 
and screws to plate or flange, send flange to 
us or an accurate tracing of holes, stating 
whether one or both sides are to be beveled, if only one side, state whether 
screw holes are to be countersunk on flat or beveled side. Circular and 
straight knives for cutting rubber, cork, etc., made to order. 




Cork Cutter, 




MITRE SAWS. 

The above cut is a section of circular mitre 
saw and shows the manner in which they are 
ground, style of tooth, and how they should 
be filed. This saw is designed especially 
for cutting mitres and general small box 
work where clean, smooth and tight joints 
are necessary. It answers the purpose 
admirably, cuts as smooth as a planer, does 
true and rapid work, and is becoming more 
popular daily. This saw being ground thin- 
ner at centre, no set is required. In order- 
ing saws of this kind, give size of mandrel- 
hole and collars of mandrel the saw is to be 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 51 

GROOVING SAWS. 

7 -^ ^ 




These useful little tools are too well-known to require special mention. 
They are ground thinner at centre than at rim, so that little or no set is 
required or just sufficient to keep the extreme points of teeth perceptibly 
wider than body of tooth. We make them any gauge at edge or centre as 
may be wanted. In ordering grooving saws, state whether wanted straight 
or hollow ground, and if the latter, give size of collar. 

GANG SAWS. 



• C?'. ST STEEL. ^/VvftBRANTEp 




>^^ii|-|rjriF]^^ 



Our gang saws are made from steel which exactly suits their purpose, and 
they are evenly tempered and ground by our patented processes. We guar- 
antee them to run more freely than those of any other make. In support of 
this assertion we cite the following instance : 

Some time ago we visited a large gang-mill in this State which was run 
by two engines, each of one-hundred-and-fifty-horse power. The engines 
were flagging and the owners were considering the propriety of putting in 
more power. We induced them to try one gang of saws of our make, and 
the result was so convincing they immediately ordered three thousand dollars' 
worth of ours and abandoned the use of all others. They have since informed 
us that the change increased the capacity of their mill 33,000 feet per day, 
with power to spare. This saving of power was effected by furnishing them 
with saws made perfectly true and properly ground, thus overcoming all un- 
necessary friction. When filing gang, mill and mulay saws, care should be 
taken to have sufficient pitch to teeth to prevent " kicking back " and not 
too much to cause " chattering." The most desirable set to use is the square 
or swage set, and gullets should be round. 

The reversed teeth in cut above represented will make a cleaner cut on 
the lov/er edge of the boards, preventing the tear ng or sprawling of the 
timber by the down cut. 



52 



HENR V D IS ST ON dx' SONS' 



BRAZING CLAMP. 




DIRECTIONS FOR JOINING OR BRAZING BAND SAWS. 

The parts to be joined must be beveled on opposite sides to a width of 
three-quarters of an inch to a nice fit ; the ends of bevels should be per- 
fectly square and taper of bevel uniform throughout. Place the ends of saw 
on table with the back of blade against straight edge B, have the centre of 
lap over centre of irons E and D, then clamp securely by setting down screws 
C C C C. Clean the beveled parts with dilute muriatic acid ; cover with a 
thin borax paste ; cut a strip of silver solder same size as lap, clean this in 
the same manner as the parts to be joined, and place it between lap. Have 
iron D centrally adjusted ; heat the irons E E \.Qd. bright red in a moderate 
fire, using charcoal, coke or hard coal. When the irons are at the proper 
heat, scrape all the scale from the sides to be applied to the saw ; place 
them as shown in cut, centrally over and under the lap ; place iron E on 
iron E and clamp firmly with screw G, after which, to allow expansion, 
slack up the screws C C C C ; leave the saw in this position until cool 
enough to set the solder, tightening up occasionally on screw G as the irons 
contract by cooling, and when cool enough to handle, the joint can be 
cleaned, straightened and dressed to thickness of balance of blade. 



HAMMERING BAND SAWS. 

In hammering band saws they must be perfectly straight on the edges 
and open uniformly throughout the width of blade, dropping about one-six- 
teenth of an inch at the centre and tapering up to nothing to within one-half of 
an inch at both edges. A good saw, hammered in this manner and used on a 
good machine, will run well and give good results generally. Many saws are 
made that are unevenly tempered and hammered, which leaves long and 
short places in the edges or not of an even tension, and when subjected to 
strain are twisted and distorted, and finally break at the badly tempered 
places. 

RUNNING BAND SAWS. 

When running band saws, keep the correct pitch upon the front of the 
teeth so as to give a proper lead into the cut, which will prevent the saw 
from being pressed too heavily against the back guide^ a continued heavy 
pressure against which will flange and crystallize the steel, from which cracks 
are sure to start. Band saws should be kept well sharpened, as many are 
broken from being run with dull teeth. Keep the gullets round. Select 
files with round edges for filing them. The saw must be uniform in width 
throughout, so that every tooth will perform its part of the work, for it can 
be readily seen how easy it would be to break the saw if the points of some 
of the teeth would project any considerable distance beyond the others. 

WHY BAND SAWS BREAK. 

In explaining the methods of adjusting and keeping band saws in order, 
we have shown many of the reasons why they break, but we give the follow- 
ing additional causes : Machines which have wheels entirely too small for 
the saw ; starting or stopping the machine too suddenly ; dirt clogging on 
the face of the wheels, making an uneven surface; any hard substance falling 
between the saw and the wheel; contraction of saw, pulling it apart, par- 
ticularly in cold weather; the strain should betaken off when the machine is 
stopped. Saws, after gumming, should be filed, as they are very apt to break 
from the ragged edge put on by the gumming tool. 

When we consider the number of times these saws run over the wheels 
and the strain put on them, it is only fair to ask of the user that they be kept 
in order as instructed in the preceding paragraphs. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING MURIATE OF ZINC. 

Feed into muriatic acid small pieces of zinc until the mixture ceases to 
boil, after which dilute with an equal portion of rain or distilled water. 

DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING BORAX FOR BRAZING. 

Roast the borax until all the moisture is driven off; pulverize and mix 
with distilled water to a thin paste. 



54 



HENR Y DISSTON &- SONS' 



DIRECTIONS FOR JOINING SMALL BAND SAWS. 

The parts to be joined must be beveled to a nice fit. Secure the saw at 
both ends in clamps, as per cut. See that the edges are parallel, or a short 




and a long edge will be the result, which will cause the saw to run badly and 
to break on the short edge when strained. Put on the filed parts a thin coat 
of borax paste. Cut a piece of very thin sheet silver solder of the same size 
as joint to be made, which place between the lap. Take a pair of tongs 
having suitably sized jaws for the joint and that have been heated to a bright 
red, sufficiently to melt the solder. Scrape all the scale off between the jaws 
with an old file \ hold the joint with the hot tongs until the solder has thor- 
oughly melted ; remove the hot tongs carefully and follow up with another 
pair heated to show a dull red, which will set the solder and prevent the joint 
from being chilled too suddenly. The joint can then be dressed to thickness 
of the saw blade. It would be as well to have a pair of cold tongs to clamp 
the hot jaws firmly to the joint, as the hot iron must fit nicely over the whole 
width of the saw. In joining, do not make the lap longer than is absolutely 
necessary ; one half-inch is sufficient for scroll saws, three-quarters of an inch 
for saws two to eight inches wide. 

ANVIL, HAMMERS and STRAIGHT EDGES for HAMMERING 

SAWS. 




The above cut represents the tools necessary for altering or adjusting the 



HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



55 



tension of saws. We make these tools with great care, and of steel best 
suited to the purpose. 



SWAGE BAR AND HAMMER. 






'"'"'""■"'^^fc 



The above cut represents our swage bar and hammer for use on circular 
and gang saws. We make the hammers in two sizes ; the bars of any shape, 
size or weight as desired. 

GAUGE FOR REGULATING CLEANING-TEETH. 




Showing the Gauge in Position for Filing the Cleaner-Tooth. 

The cleaning-teeth of all saws should be somewhat shorter than the 
cutting teeth, and, although shortened, should be of uniform length 
throughout. 

The inner edge of the gauge rests on the points of the cutting teeth, the 
cleaning teeth projecting through the opening in centre of gauge. Reduce 
the projecting points by means of a file, until arrested by the edges of the 
gauge, which is made of hardened steel. Thus tooth after tooth can be 
rapidly and correctly reduced to an even length by any unskilled operator. 



56 



HENR V DISSTON &- SOAP'S' 





THE GREAT AMERICAN. 

Patented October 4th, 1870. 

This saw has been subjected to the most se- 
vere tests, and is one of the Best Cross-Cut Saws 
ever offered to the public. The most important 
advantages of this saw are as follows : 

The outer teeth of each section are as sharp and 
effective cutting as the teeth of a rip saw, while 
the middle or regulating tooth determines the 
extent of the cut in proportion to the bevel of said 
tooth. The more the centre tooth is beveled 
the fastfr the saw cuts ; whereas, if the centre 
tooth is filed square the saw takes less hold on 
your log, and requires less muscle to drive it. 
Thus the saw can be regulated to suit the strength 
of the parties working it. 

With this saw there is no '■^tearing of the wood, 
undue friction and drag,'''' which in many other im 
proved cross-cut saws demand so much muscular 
exertion without a commensurate result. 

There is no cross-cut saw in the market by 
which so much work can be done in ten hours, 
with so little exertion, as with the " Great Am- 
erican Regulating Cross- Cut. 

THE LUMBERMAN 

is greatly preferred in some sections of the country, 
and can be easily kept in order if filed according 
to directions, while so many of the fast-cutting 
saws of the present day lose their shape. 

In filing this saw, the round-edge mill-file should 
be used, and by pressing a little downward as well 
as sidewise the tooth is kept in the same shape it 
leaves the factory. 






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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN, 



57 




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HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 



59 



FILES. 

We use a great number of files in the manufacture of saws, employing 
over one hundred expert saw filers who file the various kinds of saws with a 
still greater variety of files. Each filer purchases the files he uses, and is 
allowed to use any brand of files from which he can get the best result so 
that we have the best practical means of knowing the proper and suitable 
conditions required in the manufacture of all the regular and special files 
for filing saws. 

MILL SAW FILES. 




Our regular mill saw files are of the best crucible file steel made, and 
superior in hardness and sharpness to any files on the market. The teeth are 
so formed as to be most durable and to file keenly as well as smoothly. 

TAPER SAW FILES. 




Our taper saw files in shape and quality are as perfect as the practical 
experience of the best saw filers can determine. The corners are carefully 
cut and made the proper thickness to be strong and sharp, and are in every 
respect made on the best known principles. 

GREAT AMERICAN FILE. 



,.^^^^^ 




Our Great American cross-cut file was first designed and made by us 
for keeping in order the teeth of our Great American cross-cut saws. We 
have given special attention to their manufacture and can confidently 
guarantee them superior in every respect to any other files made for that 
purpose. It is also the most suitable file for the " Lumberman " and other 
cross-cut saws of that style. 



60 



HENR Y DISS TON 6^ SONS' 



NEW PROCESS OF SHARPENING FILES AFTER HARDENING.. 

The sharpening of file teeth after hardening is a valuable improvement 
in the manufacture of files, and makes those so manufactured (under this. 
process) as far superior to any made under the old system as a sharpened saw 
is to a dull one. 

All cutting tools, except files, are sharpened after having been hardened 
and tempered, and while it has been deemed essential that files should be 
treated in the same manner, it has been impossible to sharpen the t°eth until 
this recently-discovered method makes it practicable to do so, thus insuring. 
a sharpness that has long been desired, and which cannot be otherwise 
obtained. 

New mill files sharpened by this process will not only do more work, but 
will make finer and sharper cutting edges, and will file a harder saw than the- 
ordinary file. A trial of files made under this improved process will fully 
prove their superiority, and can be relied on to have a degree of excellence 
never before attained, and this without extra cost to the purchaser. 

Rasps and files for bra?s and other metals are specially benefitted, and 
all packages containing such rasps and files will be labeled sharpened, and 
day and date when so done. 

STAVE SAW FILES. 

We make several styles and sizes to suit the particular kind of saw or the 
manner of filing. Every file is warranted. (See Price List.) 

PATENT "GRIP" FILE HANDLE. 




This file handle can be instantly attached or detached. The " grip " is 
hard and sharp and fastens into the soft tang of the file, by pushing the tang 
as far into the '' grip " as it will go, and then turn the handle to the right 
until it is tight and firm. 

SCREW FERRULE FILE HANDLE. 



.\fi 




This file handle consists of a hard, smooth screw thread in the front end' 
of the ferrule, and will cut its own way into the soft tang of the file, b^ 
pushing the handle as far on the tang as it will go and then screw it on until 
it is firm and tight. They are made in six sizes, but they will hold any 
size or shape that will go into the ferrule. 



•^ ^BSTimiMI AlSa-^ 



Disston's Saws are used wherever lumber is made, and are the crite- 
rion of excellence by which the merits of all others are judged. 
In proof of this, we submit a few of the many testimo- 
nials which we receive daily from all parts of the w^orld. 



" Centre Point, Dolby Co., West Virginia, Aug. 12, 1886. 
" Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Sirs ; — Your saw came all right. I have used it two weeks, and in that time sawed 
eighty thousand feet. It is the best saw I ever run — I would not give it for any solid-tooth 
saw made. It gives entire satisfaction, and I would advise all mill men to buy that kind, 
as it needs less gumming, and does not take half the work to keep it in order. 

" Yours truly, 

"J. N. DORSON." 



" Duck Hill, Mississippi, Feb. 24, 1887. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gents ; — I have been running a mill now 12 months under the instructions you sent 
me last March, and am prepared to say that it seems to me that if any thinking man will 
run according to your instructions, he can't help but succeed. I to-day retire from the 
mill business, and taking this method of thanking you for your advice, I will but say, in 
the future I shall use nothing but your best hand-saws in my trade. We have some 
excitement in iron ore here now and don't know what will be the result. Hoping and 
wishing you the very best success, I remain 

" Yours obediently, 

"H. N. KING." 



" South Whitley, Indiana, Dec. 2gth, 1886. 
" Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gents ; — We have used a number of your saws, the last being a 70 inch. Each and 
every one has given entire satisfaction. We can cheerfully recommend them to all mill men. 

" Yours truly, 

"J. M. BRIANT & CO." 



" Paducah, Kentucky, Dec. jist, 1886. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

"Dear Sirs: — Yours of the 29th to hand, contents noted. The Gang Saws we pur- 
chased from you gave perfect satisfaction in every respect and we found them to be all you 
claimed for them. 

" Yours truly, 

' LANGSTAFF-ORM MFG. CO." 



«2 TESTIMONIALS. 



" Centreville, N. H,, Dec. 24, j886. 
" Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Sirs : — The 52-inch Circular Saw I bought of you last December has been a good one, 
and I have taken one from your stock in Boston to run this winter. 

" Yours truly, 

"J. W. ROBERTS." 



" Yatesville, N. C, Dec. 28, 1886. 
*' Messrs. H. Disston & Sons. 

" Gentlemen : — Yours of the 23d to hand, and noted. We have been using your 
chisel bit and solid tooth saws for the last five years, and find them satisfactory in every way. 

" Yours truly, 

"WHITEHOUSE & HAYES." 



" Bass River, N. S., Dec. 30th, 1886. 
*« Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Dear Sirs: — We have had many years' experience with Disstons' saws, and find 

them more satisfactory than any others we have used. 

" Union Furniture and Mdse Co., L'd. 

" E. FULTON, 

" Secretary-Treasurer." 



" Eastman, Ga., i Month, 3, 1887. 
*' Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gents ; — Yours, by Mr. Harper, at hand. I have been using Disstons' saws since 

1859, and consider them the best solid saw in the market. 

" Yours truly, 

"]. T. COLCORD." 

" Williamsport, Pa., May 26, 1887. 
"" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa. 

" Gentlemen : — Your letter of the 24th, asking our views as to the merits of your saw 
is at hand. Would say, we are using a 64-inch saw, 6 and 7 gauge with 72 teeth, running 
it with steam feed, and have run it without taking it off the mandrel three consecutive days, 
-cutting from 50,000 to 55,000 feet per day. We cut 63,000 feet at one time without point- 
ing. We have run it as high as 17-inch feed, without injuring the lumber. 

. " Yours truly, 

" CORCORAN, RICHARDS & CO." 



" Carleton, St. John, N. B., Dec. 29, 1886. 
« Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gentlemen : — Yours of the 28th at hand. You can use our name as recommending 
the Disston saw as being of as good quality and more uniform than any make we have ever 
■used. 

" Yours truly, 

" HAYFORD & STETSON." 



" CkattanoogA, Tenn., January i, 1887. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gents : — We have used your make of band saws for several years. We have had 
less trouble from breakage than formerly, and we cheerfully recommend them as superior 
to any we have ever used. 

" Respectfully, 

"JOHN HOWENSTINE & CO." 



TESTIMONIALS. 6a 



•' January 21st, 188^. 
"Mr W. H. Blakeley, Melbourne. 

" Dear Sir ; — I have much pleasure in recommending Messrs. H. Disston & Sons' 
circular and vertical saws, and, during an experience of over thirty years, have found them 
superior to any others, 

" I am, dear sir, yours truly, 
« A. G. PARXICOTT, Manager for Beecham, Clark & Co. 

" Phoenix Savs' Mills.'* 



" North Fitzroy, Jan. 27th, 188^. 
"Mr. Blakeley. 

" I have much pleasure in stating I have used Messrs. Disston & Sons' circular and 
vertical saws for some time, and find them to give every satisfaction. 

" Yours truly, 

"CHARLES CRISPE." 



" January syth, j88j. 
"To Mr. W. H. Blakeley, 116 Russell Street. 

" Having been requested to give our opinion in reference to Disston & Sons' saws, we 
have much pleasure in stating that we consider them far superior in every respect to those 
of any other makers we have been in the habit of using. We prefer them to those of 
English manufacture, and would not use any others whenever a supply of them is available^ 

« HALSTEAD, KERR & CO., 
" Albion Saw Mills, Melbourne." 



" Brunswick. Jan. 12th, j88s- 
" Mr. "W. H. Blakeley. 

" Dear Sir ; — We have much pleasure in testifying to the efficiency of Disstons' Saws- 
We have now used them, both circular and frame, for some considerable time, and find them 
superior to any we have before used, both in temper and regularity of gauge. 

" We are, yours truly, 

" COOK & SWINBOURN." 



" March 'jth, 188^. 
" Mr. W. H. Blakeley, Sawmaker, 

" Russell Street, Melbourne, 
" Dear Sir: — The Disston & Sons' saws supplied by you, we have much pleasure in 
saying, are far and away the best circular saws we have ever used, and we have used 
many good makers' saws during the last five and twenty years in Adelaide, 

" Yours truly, 

« S. HARVEY & WM. KING. 

" Adelaide." 



" February 2'jth, 188^. 
*» To Mr. W. H. Blakeley, Russell Street, Melbourne. 

" Dear Sir ; — Having been requested to give our opinion respecting your saws, we da 
so with great pleasure, having had them in use for six years, and have been thoroughly- 
satisfied. We recommend them to all we know. 

" We remain, yours, &c., 

« EASON & CLAYTON. 
" Brighton & St. Kilda Saw Mills." 



64 TESTIMONIALS. 

" Emporium, Pa., Dfc. s-jth, 1886. 
" Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gents ; — Your favor of the 23d inst. at hand; in reply would say will be pleased to 
help you in this matter, as I can speak from a 20 years' experience of handling your saws, 
and have found them to give good satisfaction in every respect, especially your gang saws. 
Please forward me one of your new circulars or catalogues when ready for issue. 

" Yours truly, 

" HENRY AUCHER." 



" Cold Brook Springs, Massachusetts, Dec i^th, i88j. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Sirs; — The 48-inch chisel point saw, loxii gauge, with 36 teeth, that I bought of 
you March 5th, 1884, is the best saw that I ever run for a thin saw. I cut out 300,000 oak 
and pine, and 200,000 railroad sleepers with one set of teeth, and did not spend over ten 
hours time in filing, while sawing that quantity of lumber. I think that is doing well with 
one set of teeth. I see in the Lumber JVor/J that you have got up a patent tooth, and if 
it is better than your chisel-tooth, please let me know. 

" Truly yours, 

"R. F. PARKE." 



" Westonia, Georgia, j^an. ^th, j88y. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gents; — All we say about the Disston Saw is that we prefer them to any saw that we 
know of. At times we cut a good deal of turpentine timber that has turned into hard light- 
wood, and we find that they stand up to this work better than any saw we have ever used. 

" Respectfully, 

« S. R. & J. D. WESTON." 



" Edwards, New York, Dec 20th, 188^. 
" Henry Disston & Sons. 

"Gents;— -Please send me your Illustrated Catatogue and price list of your circular saws, 

"And oblige, "GEO. W. FLACK, 

« P. S. — The chisel-tooth saw I got last Spring (through the Birdsall Co.,) works 
splendid." 



" Cleveland, Ohio, yan. 20, 188 j. 
*<■ Henry Disston \ Sons. 

"Gentlemen; — Having used the 60 and 72-inch diameter, Disston Patent Chisel 
Point Circular Saws, purchased of you, for seven months, we have no hesitation in saying 
that they are the best we have ever used. The chisel points furnished with same are a 
perfect success, and often enable us to cut 300,000 feet with one set of points. We expect 
to use one more circular saw this season, and possibly two, and as soon as we can arrive 
at a decision will place the order with you for the Disston. 

" Respectfully yours, 
" CLEVELAND SAW MILL & LUMBER CO. 

"George R. Payne, Vice-President." 



" Orangeburg, South Carolina, yuly 28, 1886, 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

"Sirs; — The chisel-point saw arrived on Monday, the 23rd, and was put to work 
immediately. It works admirably, walking through 36-inch logs, cypress and pine, without 
trouble, and making as beautiful lumber as I have ever seen. 

" Yours truly, 

« F. COPES." 



TESTIMONIALS. 65 

" Minneapolis, Minnesota, Dec. sgth, 1886. 
-" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Sirs : — I have used the Disston saw in my saw-mill for the last seven years, and they 
■have given me better satisfaction than any other make that I have used, and I have tried 
■almost all brands of saws. 

" Yours truly, 

"JAMES GOODNOW." 



" Henderson, Kentucky, Dec. 23th, 1886. 
« Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Sirs -. — The 62-inch lo-gauge saw you made for P. J. McNamary, eighteen months 
ago, ordered by me, is running yet, as good as the first day I hung it on the mandrel. I 
have been running it myself ever since I got it, and have never had a hammer on it. I 
believe I can wear it out and never have it repaired. I run it at the 3-inch feed, and it 
never has been warm one particle since I got it. It is the finest saw that I ever put a file 
'On. I will want another one after a while. You make the boss saw to my notion, and the 
>man that can't run one of them is no sawyer. 

" Yours truly, 

"LEON WORLEY, Sawyer" 



" Ronceverte, West Virginia, yan. 4th, 1887. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gentlemen: — We have used your circular and gang saws for years with satisfaction, 

and take pleasure in recommending them to the public as first class in every respect. 

" Yours very truly, 

" E. C. BEST, 

" General Manager." 



" LaGrange, Ohio, Jan. sgth, 1883. 
*' Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gentlemen : — In regard to the 60-inch chisel tooth saw, 8 gauge, of H. Disston & 
Sons' make, which we bought of you, we were well pleased with it. It stands up good 
(Under 3-inch feed with full cut of saw (27-inch cut) in frozen timber. We are cutting from 
8,000 to 12,000 feet of lumber per ten hours, edging all lumber with same saw. We could 
nearly double the amount if we had a good edger. We saw all kinds of timber common to 
Northern Ohio, such as oak, ash, beech, maple, hickory, elm, poplar, basswood, etc. 

" Three-inch being the largest feed we have, we do not know how much our saw 
would stand, but would no doubt carry much heavier feed, at least in soft wood. We are 
cutting from 100,000 to 200,000 feet with each set of 36 teeth. We have used one set of 
teeth three weeks after the corners were worn off, by spreading with swage, which works 
well if the swage is of suitable shape. You may refer to us any one you wish in regard 
to Disston's saws. 

" Yours truly, 

"BUTLER & BEHNER." 



" CoNROE, Texas, Dec. 31st, 1886. 
" Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Sir : — In answer to yours of the 29th to give testimonial as to the H. Disston's 

saws, I will state that I have used the Disston saws for the last twelve years, and that I find 

them the best that I have ever used. I have tried a number of other makes, but I 

think the Disston far superior to any that I have ever tried. 

" Respectfully yours, 

"I. CONROE." 



66 TESTIMONTALS. 

" Orlando, Florida, Aug. 26th, j88j. 
" Send two dozen eyes or holders for teeth for your inserted tooth saw, 7 gauge, 52-inch^ 
32 teeth. Your saw works very fine in our hard yellow pine. Prefer it to any we 
have used, 

"ORLANDO LUMBER CO.^ 

■'W. R. GULICK." 



" Houston, Texas, Dair. 30th, 1886. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Sir : — I cheerfully say that the Henry Disston & Sons' circular saws I purchased of 
you are the best I ever used, and in future no other shall be my choice. 

" Yours truly, 

"HERMAN A, BAUER." 



" Cynthiana, Kentucky, Feb. i6th, 188^. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

" Gents ; — I bought of you through W. Baldridge & Co., of Cincinnati, Ohio, about 
one year ago, one of your 52-inch, 6x7 gauge, patent chisel point circular saws. I have ruit 
it ever since through the roughest burr oaks and sugar tree, and in fact as rough timber and 
as tough as the Blue Grass Region of Kentucky affords, and it cost me ^85.50, and to-day 
I would not take ^500.00 for it, if I could not replace it. It works like a charm, no trouble to- 
keep in order, always exactly round and each tooth cuts its proportion ; it has not cost me 
one cent yet, and I can make smoother lumber with less pains than with any other make 
and caii saw off more points of dog'?, and nails, and iron of any description, than any other 
make, and do less injury. I actually sawed half off the lower half of my saw guide a few 
days ago, and did not hurt the saw a particle. Broke one tooth, and I just put in a new set 
in twenty minutes and went on, whereas if it had been a solid tooth it would have cost me- 
probably ten dollars. They will stand more hardships than any other saw made in U. S. A. 

" Yours truly, 

"J. E. HAYES." 



" Barnum, Texas, yan. jst, 1887. 
" Henry DisstoN & Sons, 

" Sir ; — The Disston saws bought of you some time ago have given perfect satisfaction^ 
and we have almost decided not to use any other. We have not had occasion to use any of 
Para belting yet, will write you when we have thoroughly tested it. 

" Yours truly, 

"W. T. CARTER & BRO." 



" Sawmills, Narracoorte, S. A., yun. ijih, i88s- 
" Mr. W. H. Blakeley, Sawmaker, Russell Street, Melbourne. 

"Dear Sir; — I have for the past five years used H. Disston & Sons' circular and' 
vertical saws, and during that time I have found them to give complete satisfaction, having 
had them at the roughest of work both in South Australia, New South Wales, and Victoria. 
I am taking care to recommend them to my friends and sawmill men generally with whom. 
I am acquainted ; and as I find them of such a superior temper and so much more reliable 
than any other maker I. have tried, I will not use any other when a "Disston" is. 
procurable. 

" I am, dear sir, yours faithfully, 

"A. C. MUNRO." 



TESTIMONIALS. 67 

" SuRRENCY, Georgia, Jan. 7, '5<5. 
"Henry Disston & Sons, 

" Gents : — The Disston saws purchasecf from you some time ago are doing all we 
would ask, and in fact, my saw filer prefers them to any saws we have now in use. In 
future, all saws I order will be the Disston saws, as I believe them to be the cheapest and 
best saws that saw-mill men can use. 

! " Yours truly, 

"GEO. L. IFFERMAN, 

" Sup't McDonough & Co." 



" WiLLiAMSPORT, Pa., June i, 1887. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa. 

"Gentlemen: — It affords us much pleasure to inform you that the two 66-inch, 

8 gauge saws, with eighty-five teeth, are the best saws we ever used. We have the solid 

tocjith saw, same size and gauge, also inserted tooth saw, but we do not use them only 

as a. change, as we can make better lumber, and a great deal more of it with your saws than 
with any of the others. We run from 6- to 20-inch feed with your saw. Have used your 
gang saws for over fifteen years, and consider them the best in the market. 

"Yours truly, 

"BROWN, CLARK & HOWE." 



" DOUGLASTOWN, N. B., Bee:. 26, 1886. 

" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

"Gentlemen; — Yours of yesterday received. I do not now use any other saw than 
Disston's in my gangs, andyfw^ them good — in fact, they are the only saw in my experience 
which will stand the work. For gang saws give me Disston's every time. It does not pay 
to touch any other. 

" Yours truly, 

"E. HUTCHISON." 



" Suffolk, Virginia, Dec. sg, 1886. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa. 

" Dear Sirs : — The three 64-inch circular saws bought of you a short time since for 
our new mill, made of your compressed steel, have given entire satisfaction. 

" They swage better, and will do more work from one filing than any saws we have 
ever seen. 

' " Yours truly, 

"THE GAY MANUFACTURING CO-" 



" Rehn, Pa., ^une i, 1887. 
" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. 

Dear Sirs: — I don't know as I ever told you how I liked your Band Saws; but 
will say now they are the best there are, without a doubt. 

" Yours truly, 

•' F. J. McNUTT." 



^ 



HENRY DISSTON & SONS' 



-H-[INCORPORATED.]-H^ 



►jfKEYSTONE-H- 



iaw. Tool 



BRANCH HOUSE, 

vf^rjicaer©, ill. 




BRANCH HOUSE, 

IJouisVilJe, ijy. 



PHiLiADEiiPHiA, Pfl. 



PART II, 



Construction of Saws 



And How to Keep Them in Order. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1888, by HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Incorporated. 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The demand for a book of instruction on saw filing having demonstrated 
itself to us not only by personal inquiry and letter, but also by the return 
of fine quality saws, pronounced defective through a lack of knowledge of 
how to keep them in order, or by the use of extensively advertised so-called 
saw-sets and other tools, — which pull the saw blade apart or so distort it 
as to render it unfit for use — has led us to compile this little work for gratuitous 
distribution for the enlightenment of the amateur and the improvement of 
the expert meclTanic. 

Having thus introduced the object of this book, we will endeavor to give 
in the following pages such practical information as to the proper methods of 
keeping saws in order and of the tools with which to do so, that will over- 
come the above mentioned pit-falls to the proper working of the saw. We 
offer our large experience and the reputation of our goods for the efficiency 
of this treatise, which has been gleaned from the most practical and oldest 
saw filers of our establishment, many of whom have been with us two score of 
years. While we admit there are other methods of putting saws in order, 
there is no difference in the result obtained ; our modes we claim the easiest 
and equally or more effective. 

We take occasion to thank our patrons for their appreciation of the high 
standard that our products have attained, — which has been the basis for our 
constantly increasing business — which shall be maintained, and trust thereby 
to renew our good will and increase our trade in future. 

_ HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Incorporated. 



CONTENTS. 

PART H. 



Introduction, 

Principle of Construction of Saws, 

Rip Saws, .... 

Cross-Cut Hand Saws, . 

Rake or Pitch of Cross-Cut Saws, 

Filing Saws, .... 

Fine Toothed Saws, 

Compass, Butcher and Hack Saws, 

Setting Saws, 

Star Saw-Set, .. . 

Adjustable Saw Clamp, 

Large Cross-Cut Saws, . 

File for Great American Saw, etc., 

File for use on "Acme" No. 120 Saw, 

Band Saws, . . . • • 



3 

5 

5.6 

6-8 

9-12 

12-16 

12, 13 

14 

14 

15 
16 

17 

18 

19 
20 



CONSTRUCTION OF SA WS. 



PRINCIPLE OF CONSTRUCTION. 

The saw is either reciprocating or continuous in action, the first being a 
flat blade and practically straight edge, making a plane cut, as in hand, mill, 
jig and sash saws; the latter, either a circular or rotating disc, cutting in a 
plane at a right angle to its axis, a cylindrical or barrel shape with a convex 
edge cutting parallel to its axis, or a continuous ribbon or band running on 
two pulleys making a plane or curved cut with a straight edge parallel to 
their axes of rotation. Practically speaking, the teeth are a series of knives 
set on a circular or straight line, each tooth cutting out its proportion of 
wood and kept from cutting more by the teeth on either side of it. Each 
tooth should cut the same amount and carry out the chip or dust, dropping 
it to the sides or below the material being sawed. Different kinds of wood 
require teeth different in number, angle or pitch and style of filing. 

The perfection of a saw is one that cuts the fastest and smoothest with 
the least expenditure of power ; to do this, it is evident that each tooth should 
be so constructed and dressed as to do an equal proportion of the work, for 
if any of the teeth are out of line or shape, they are not only useless them- 
selves, but a disadvantage to the others. We find many good mechanics who 
frankly acknowledge that they never could file a saw satisfactorily ; the prob- 
able reason is that they never studied the principle of the action or working 
of the tool. There is no reason why any man of ordinary mechanical ability 
should not be able to put and keep his saw in order, but like all trades, it 
requires practice and study of the subject. 

A careful study of the following illustrations and explanations, will greatly 
assist in the selection of a saw and the best methods of keeping it in proper 
working order. 

A saw tooth has two functions — paring and scraping. A slitting or 
ripping saw for wood should have its cutting edge at about right angles to the 
fibre of the wood, severing it in one place, the throat of tooth wedging out 
the piece. 

In a cross-cut wood saw, the cutting edge also strikes the fibre at right 
angles to its length, but severs it on each side from the main body before 
dislodging it. 



RIP SAWS. 




Fig. 1. 
Fig. I is a four-point rip or slitting saw with the rake all in front, 
where the cutting duty is. This saw should be filed square across, filing one- 



CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS, 



half the teeth from each side after setting, which will give a slight bevel to the 
cutting edge of tooth, as it should be for soft wood ; for medium hard woods 
a finer toothed saw with five points to the inch should be used and dressed 
in the same manner ; for the very hardest and toughest cross-grained woods 
a saw still finer, the teeth filed slightly beveling, as ripping cross-grained stuff 




partakes a little of the nature of cross-cutting. In all cases where ripping 15 
done, the thrust of the saw should be on an angle of about 45 ° to the material 
being cut, as shown in Fig. 2 ; this makes a shearing cut, an advantage 
that can be very quickly demonstrated with an ordinary pocket knife cutting 
any piece of wood. For ripping thoroughly dry lumber, it will be found 
advantageous to use an extra thin back saw which will run without set. 

CROSS-CUT HAND SAWS. 



In cross-cutting, the fibre of the wood is severed twice — on each side of 
the saw — the thrust dislodging and carrying the dust out. 



AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 



Fig. 3 is a five-point peg tooth cross-cut saw with the rake on the 
side. For the same reason that the rip saw has the rake on front of tooth, 
the cross-cut has it on the side, as that is where the cutting duty is. The 
bevel or fleam to teeth in Fig. 3 is about 45°, while there is no pitch at all; 

Fig. 3. 




the angle on each side being the same, forms the "peg tooth,'''' which is best 
adapted to cutting soft, wet and fibrous woods, and used principally as a 
buck saw. 

In all cases, the size and length of teeth depend largely upon the duty 
required ; a long tooth has the demerit of being weak and liable to spring, 
but the merit of giving a greater clearance to the saw-dust. The throat space 
in front of each tooth must be large enough to contain the dust of that tooth 
from one stroke ; the greater the feed, the deeper the dust chamber required, 
or, more teeth. Where the teeth are fine, the shape of the throat is of 
special interest. 

The first point to be observed in the selection of a savv^ is to see that it 
"hangs" right. Grasp it by the handle and hold it in position for work- 
ing, to see if the handle fits the hand properly. These are points of great im- 
portance for comfort and utility. A handle should be symmetrical, and the 
lines as perfect as any drawing. Many handles are made of green wood; 
they soon shrink and become loose, the screws standing above the wood. We 
season our handle-wood three years before using. An unseasoned handle is 
liable to warp and throw the saw out of shape. The next thing in order is 
to try the blade by springing it, seeing that it bends regularly and evenly 
from point to butt in proportion as the width and gauge of the saw varies. 
If the blade is too heavy in comparison to the teeth, the saw will n/ever give 
satisfaction, because it will require more labor to use it ; the thinner you can 
get a stiff saw the better; it makes less kerf and takes less muscle to 
drive it. This principle applies to the well-ground saw. There is less fric- 
tion on a narrow true saw than on a wide one ; you will get a smaller portion 
of blade, but you will save much unnecessary labor at a very little loss of the 
width. 

See that it is well set and sharpened and has a good crowning breast ; 
place it at a distance from you and get a proper light on it, by which you can 
see if there is any imperfection in grinding or hammering. We should in- 
variably make a cut before purchasing a saw, even if we had to carry a board 



8 



CONSTRUCTION OF SA WS, 



to the hardware store. We set our saws on a stake or small anvil with a 
hammer; a highly tempered saw takes three or four blows, as it is apt to 
break by attempting to set it with but one blow. This is a severe test, and 
no tooth ought to break afterwards in setting, nor will it, if the mechanic 
adopts the proper method. The saw that is easily filed and set is easily 
made dull. We have frequent complaints about hard saws, but they are not 
as hard as we would make them if we dared ; but we shall never be able to 
introduce a harder saw until the mechanic is educated to a more correct 
method of setting it. As a rule, saws are set more than is necessary, and if 
more attention was paid to keeping points of teeth well sharpened, any well- 
made saw would run with very little set, and there would be fewer broken 
ones. The principal trouble is that too many try to get part of the set out 
of the body of the plate, while the whole of the set should be on the teeth. 
Setting below the root of the tooth distorts and strains the saw-plate, which 
may cause a full -tempered cast-steel blade to crack and eventually break at this 
spot, and is always an injury to the saw, even if it does not crack or break. 

The teeth of a hand-saw should be filed so true that, on holding it up 
to the eye and looking along its edge, it will show a central groove down 
which a fine needle will slide freely the entire length ; this groove must be 
angular in shape and equal on each side, or the saw is not filed properly and 
will not run true. 



Fig-. 4-. 



M 



Fig. 5. 



Fig. 6. 



Fig. 7. 



ru 



u 



\A 



Fig. 4 shows how the groove should appear on looking down the edge 
of the saw ; the action should be such that the bottom of kerf will present the 
appearance as shown in Fig. 5, and not like Fig. 6; the cutting action is 
as shown in Fig. 7, the cutting being done with the outside of tooth, 
the fibre of the wood is severed in the two places and the wood is crumbled 
out from point to point by the thrust of saw. 

The proper amount of bevel to give the teeth is very important, as is 
demonstrated by the above figures, for if too much bevel is given, the points 
will score so deeply that the fibres severed from the main body will not 
crumble out as severed, but be removed by continued rasping, particularly in 
hard woods, as they require less bevel, as well as pitch, than soft wood. 

Fig. 8 on next page, shows a six-point cross-cut saw filed with a medium 
amount of bevel on front or face of tooth, and none on the back. This tooth is 
used in buck saws, on hardwood, and for general sawing of woods of varying 



AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 



Fig. 8. 




degrees of tenacity. This style of dressing is the best/ but a numbered 
saws each having teeth suited to its particular work, will be found more ad- 
vantageous than trying to make one saw serve for all kinds of hand saw work. 
We will now consider the cross-cut saw tooth, in regard to rake or 
pitch; this being one of the most important features, too much care cannot 
be taken to have the correct amount of pitch for the duty required. To 
illustrate this, Fig. 9 represents a board, across which we wish to make a 
deep mark or score with the point of a knife ; suppose we hold the knife 




nearly perpendicular as at B, it is evident it will push harder and will not 
cut as smooy^ly as if it was inclined forward as at A; it follows then that the 
cutting edge of a cross-cut saw should incline forward as at C, rather than 
stand perpendicular as at D. 

Too much hook or pitch, and too heavy a set are very common faults 
not only detrimental to good work but ruinous to the saw; the first, by hayl 



10 



CONSTRUCTION OF SA fVS, 



ing a large amount of pitch, the saw takes hold so keenly that frequently it 
*'/iaf2gs tip" suddenly in the thrust — the result, a kinked or broken blade; 
the second, by having too much set, the strain caused by the additional and 
unnecessary amount of set is out of proportion to the strength of the blade, 
and is broken in the same manner. The most general amount of pitch used 
is 60°, though this may be varied a little more or less to advantage, as occa- 
sion may demand. 

The next point to be considered is the bevel, or fleam, of the point. 
In Figs. 10, II and 12, the filer, as in all cases, files from the heel to the 
point, which is the only correct way. The file is supposed to be horizontal to 





Fig. II. 



m.,^-' kMMkAkMMMMMh 




the perpendicular of the side of saw, and on an angle of about 45° longitu- 
dinally with the length, measuring from file line toward heel. 



AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 



11 



Fig. lo is a five-and-a-half-point cross-cut saw showing the same amount of 
fleam front and back; this saw is best suited for work in soft wood, and where 
rapid, rather than fine work is required. A shows the position of the file, B 
an exaggerated view of shape of point, and Cthe shape of point. 

Fig. II is a seven-point saw for medium hard woods, illustrated in same 
manner as Fig. lo. This tooth has less fleam on the back, which gives a 
shorter bevel to point, as at C. 




Fig. 12 is a still finer saw, having ten points to the inch. This saw 
has no fleam on back, the result being very noticeable at C and B. This 
style of point is for hard wood. 

It will be seen that the bevel on the front of teeth in Figs. lo, ii and 
12 is the same, but the bevel of the point looking the length of saw is quite 
diff"erent, consequent upon the difi"erence in the angles of the backs. 

Fig. 13. 




13 IS a representation of some of the saws we have seen; there 



12 CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS, 

are entirely too many such now in use, and we have no doubt their owners 
are shortening their lives in the use of them as well as those of the saws. To 
owners of such saws we say, take them to the factory and have them re- 
toothed, or buy a new saw and take a fresh start, and steer clear of this style 
of filing. 

As we said in the preceding pages, and as will be seen by Figs. lo, ii 
and 1 2, the filing should be done from the heel of saw toward the point. Maciy 
practical saw filers contend this is wrong, that the filing should be done from 
point of saw toward the handle, but the only support they have for their 
theory is that they do away with the feather edge that the filing from the 
heel of saw puts on the cutting face of tooth. The feather edge is no objec- 
tion, as the main part of it is removed when the teeth are side-dressed after 
filing, as we direct in our summary of saw filing on page i6. Against the 
correctness of filing from point to handle may be cited the following ob- 
jections I 

Where a different angle of back is required, (it being remembered that 
angle of face should be the same in nearly all cross-cut hand saws, and that 
angle of back governs angle of point,) it will be found very difficult to obtain 
it without changing angle of face of tooth, and as the cutting duty is on 
the long side of face, any change is of course of great influence. 

Again, (though we think the above argument sufficient) to file from 
point of saw, it is necessary to file with the teeth bent toward the operator ; 
this will cause the saw to vibrate or chatter, which not only renders good, 
clean, even filing impossible, but breaks the teeth off the file. 

In the preceding illustrations, we have only given the coarser saws that 
are in most general use, but the same principle of filing should be applied to 
the finer toothed saws regarding angles and pitch suitable for woods of 
different degrees of hardness, the only actual difference being that one saw 
has finer points, and they being finer, require a little more care and delicate 
touch in setting and filing. 

Fig. 14. 




Figo 14 is a section of an eleven-point saw suitable for the finer kinds 
of work on dry, soft woods, such as cutting mitres, dove-tailing, pattern 
work, etc. 

Fig. 15 shows a section of saw with same number of points as Fig. 14, 



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AND BOW TO FILE THEM. 



13 



Fig. 15. 




but filed same as Fig. 12. This saw is for finer work, same as Fig. 14, 
•only on the medium hard woods. 

Fig. 16. 




Fig. 16 is a still finer saw for fine work on the very hardest woods, 
having same dress as Fig. 14. 

Fig. 17. 




Fig. 17 is the finest toothed saw that is made for wood. All the 
above mentioned saws in Figs. 14, 15, 16 and 17, are made especially hard 
and will not admit of setting, but being made thinner at the back, when 
properly filed, will cut clean and sweet. Teeth such as shown in Fig. 17 
are used principally on back saws, and are filed same as any hand-saw. 

Fig. 18. 




mmiMimW'\]WM\\\MmMX\]\S3}M: 




Fig. 18, is a section of a pruning saw which differs from a cross-cut 
liand-saw in being thicker, having a little more pitch to the teeth and being 
ground thinner on the back in proportion to its width. These, of course, 



14 CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS, 

are made for cross-cutting only, as there is not as great a variety in the- 
work, nor as much difference in the woods to be sawed as to degrees of hard- 
ness, being used only as a pruning saw on fruit and shade trees, which are 
always practically green and comparatively soft. The illustration on page 13, 
shows number of points, pitch and bevel most generally used and best adapted 
to such work. 

COMPASS SAWS. 

These saws are for miscellaneous sawing, having in turn, cross-cut, rip 
and mitre. The best form of tooth for this purpose is the same as Fig. 18, 
excepting that it has a trifle less bevel. As the nature of the work partakes 
about as much of cross- cutting as of ripping, and as a cross-cut saw will rip 
better than a rip will cross-cut, it is apparent the shape of tooth should be 
between the two. These saws are all ground thinner at back but set same as 
any hand-saw. 

Scroll and web saws are ground, filed and set in the same manner, and 
should have pitch according to the work to be done. If more ripping than 
cross-cutting is done, as in large felloes, more pitch is given than in compass, 
saws and vice versa, though these saws are almost universally run with a rip- 
saw tooth and have very little variation in the pitch. 

BUTCHER SAWS. 

These saws are for cutting bones. The pitch and number of points- 
are about the same as a fine tooth hand-saw for medium hard wood, but filed 
straight through without fleam or bevel to teeth, with light, even set, same 
as in fine hand-saws. 

HACK SAWS. 

These saws are for cutting metal, such as brass, iron, or untempered 
steel, and should have a little finer tooth than the average butcher saw, being 
made to run without set and ground thin on the back for clearance. They 
are so hard that none but the best superfine files will sharpen them. Like 
the butcher saws, the filing must be straight through and no bevel. 

SETTING SAWS. 

This is an important part of the work of keeping a saw in order and should' 
always be done after the teeth arey<5'/;;/,?^/and before filing. In all cases the 
set should be perfectly uniform, as the good working of the saw depends as. 
much on this as on the filing. Whether the saw is fine or coarse, the depth 
of setshould not go, at the most, lower than half the length of the tooth, as it 
is certain to spring the body of saw if not break the tooth out. Soft, wet; 
woods require more set as well as coarser teeth than dry, hard woods. For 
fine work on dry woods, either hard or soft, it is best to have a saw that is. 
ground so' thin on the back that it requires no set ; such saws are made hard 
and will not stand setting, and an attempt to do so would surely break the 
teeth out. 



AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 



15 



There are many saw-sets that ruin the saw ; the best form is one that 
involves the principle of the hammer and anvil ; with such a set the teeth 
would all be bent evenly, and cannot be otherwise, though repeated blows be 
given. In the Star saw-set, represented in the following engraving, this 
principle is involved, and we guarantee this tool to do the work satisfactorily. 

THE STAR SAW-SET. 





Prominent among the advantages clamied for this set is that it can be 
operated by the foot by means of a treadle, thus leaving the hands free to 
guide the saw ; or it can be used by striking on the top with a light mallet. 

A is the plunger, operated by a treadle attached to E, under the machine, 
a slight tap with the foot setting the tooth ; B, the hammer or striking part ; 
C, the anvil ; D, the movable gauge ; F, the screw to regulate the amount 
of set. The striking part, and the anvil, or portion which receives the blow, 
are star-shaped, and similar in construction. The points are all of different 
sizes, numbered from one to six, and are designed to set different sized teeth. 
It will strike a blow as sharp and effective as though by a hammer, and is the 



16 



CONSTRUCTION OF SA fVS, 



most useful and complete saw-set that has ever been offered. If the saw is 
hard, several blows should be given in setting it, raising the back of the saw 
from the guide-screw J^ when the first blow is given, and gradually lowering 
it with each blow until the process is complete ; thus many a good saw will be 
saved from utter ruin. A trial will suffice. Be sure to clean the saw teeth 
before setting. 

ADJUSTABLE SAW CLAMP. 




Care should be taken in filing a saw to keep the teeth of uniform size- 
not one large and one small, one up and one down. Unless your teeth are 
regular, your set can never be regular. When the teeth of a saw become 
irregular in size, it is useless to attempt to regulate them without filing them 
down until all the teeth are of equ^l height. Then proceed to regulate the 
size by filing straight through. We know from experience that not one man 
in a thousand, be he ever so practical and proficient, can regulate the teeth 
of a saw without first filing down and then filing straight through. After filing 
the saw, properly set and sharpened, lay it flat on a true board, rub over the 
points of the teeth on the side with a smooth or partly worn flat file, which 
will regulate the set and insure smooth cutting, making, the filing last longer. 

After this operation, should the saw not run true, take another cut with 
the file over the side toward which it leads. A fast cutting cross-cut saw 
should have deep teeth. To make them deep they must be filed on an 
angle j to do this to advantage the clamp (see engraving) should be used. 



/• 



AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 



17 



and thus a deep gullet tooth can be filed as readily as a square bottom tooth. 
Each kind of work requires a tooth to suit it if good and quick work is 
wanted ; hard wood requires a tooth with less rake than soft wood. Teeth 
generally have not enough saw-dust chamber. 



LARGE CROSS-CUT SAWS. 





\ 



-»^A/'^ 



Fig. 19. 

Fig. 19 represents a log of wood showing ends of grain which consist 
of more or less minute fibres or threads which constitute the tenacity of the 
wood. Our object with this saw is to sever the fibres or threads in the same 
manner as shown in cross-cut hand-saws, Figs. 3, 8, 10, 11 and 12, the 
only difference being that these large saws are constructed to cut equally well 
on either stroke, and that many of them have cleaner or drag teeth to carry 
out the dust, which we will consider later. 

The same general rules for filing and setting cross-cut hand-saws apply 
to these saws, excepting that the angle of tooth is same on each side; the 
shape and space of teeth and different amounts of fleam, of course depends, 
as in other saws, largely upon the work to be performed. The greatest 
amounts of fleam are for the soft woods and less in proportion to hardness of 
same: ; this principle also applies to the amount of set. 

Fig. 20. 




Fig. 20 represents the plain cross-cut tooth which is used in any and 
all kinds of wood to equal advantage, when teeth are spaced, set and filed 



CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS, 



\ 



in accordance with instructions given in the preceding pages in relation to 
proper space, pitch and bevel. 

Fig. 21. 




Fig. 2 1 represents a section of -our improved California Tuttle tooth ; 
this tooth is used principally on soft woods; the cleaner tooth must be filed 
square and about one thirty-second of an inch shorter than the cutting teeth. 



Fig. 22. 




Fig. 2 2 is a section of our Lumberman saw, showing the style of file 
that should be used to preserve the original shape of tooth. The style of 
setting and filing this saw is the same as the ordinary cross-cut hand-saw, 
each alternate tooth set and filed from reverse sides. 




Fio-. 23 represents file for keeping teeth of our Great American cross- 
cut saws in the same shape in which they leave our works. 



V 



AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 



19 



Fig-. 24-. 



Fig. 25. 




Fig. 24 shows the manner of ifiling the long edge of the end tooth. 

Fig. 25 shows the manner of fiHng the short or inside edge of the 

•end tooth, 

Fig. 26. 




Fig. 26 shows the section of the file in the gullet of the saw. 

This file, though made expressly for our Great American cross-cut saw, 
will be found equally serviceable in filing the "Lumberman," *' Climax," 
and other cross-cut saws. 

The Great American tooth has been subjected to the most severe tesst, 
and is the best for general use ever offered to the public. These saws are 
ground extra thin back, which enables them to run with less set and more 
ease. 

Fig. 27. 




For filing the teeth as represented in Fig. 17, we make a special file repre- 
sented above, by which the original shape of teeth is maintained. This 
style of tooth we put in our ''Acme " saw,' No. 120, which is a fast, smooth- 
cutting saw, and which runs entirely without set in dry seasoned lumber 
only. The teeth are made so hard, that an attempt to set them will inevitably 
result in breaking them. 



20 



CONSTRUCTION OF SA PVS. 



T\ 



BAND SAWS. 




The only difference in the manner of setting and sharpening, and the 
shape of teeth of small band saws and ordinary hand rip-saws is that the teeth 
must have pitch enough to cause it to lead into the cut. In the ordinary rip- 
saw as shown in Fig. 2, the teeth meet the fibres of the wood at an angle 
which gives a shearing cut, while in the band saw, all the teeth strike the 
fibres alike — square across ; consequently, if there is no pitch to the teeth, 
the saw is crowded back against the guide or guard, which not only subjects 
it to unnecessary strain, often breaking it, but crystallizes the back edge of 
blade from which cracks are sure to start. Many good saws are condemned 
and ruined from these two causes alone. Great care should be taken to guard 
against this, as well as against setting the teeth too deep, for if the set runs 
down to gullets of teeth, the blade will be distorted, give poor results, and 
eventually break at the roots. 

Having explained the construction and methods of keeping saws ia 
order, and enumerated a few of the many tools with which to do so, we will 
furnish our more complete price lists of our entire manufactures on applica- 
tion. Quality of goods considered, our prices are - the lowest. Quotations 
promptly furnished and correspondence solicited. 



i 



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